Mossi Traoré put himself on trial for fall. Staging his presentation as a mock court case at the Paris Court of Appeal — the first fashion show ever held there, representing its share of challenges (more on that later) — he created a 30-minute-long performance with a full cast of characters, including judge, jury, lawyers, victims and witnesses of his own judgment for perceived crimes, including theft and impersonation.
Traoré layered, draped and folded volumes of fabric into asymmetric spins on legal garb and other tropes. A pleated, balloon-sleeved black jacket had shirt cuffs peeping out from front and back like extra arms. Textural play came by way of tweeds, evoking the time when Traoré supposedly stole electricity for his show from the fictional house of Nachel. Plays on volume were a particular focus as he worked a range of thicker fabrics into the collection. Some looks were spliced together, half one garment, half another. Others were cut asymmetrically across the body in a playful, elaborate collection that was, given the theme, heavy on cape-like shapes. Jeans — a reference to stealing Levi’s in his youth — were turned upside down, their crotch at the ankle, fixing the step like a shackles.
He created outfits for police officers, and there was an Anna Wintour impersonator, apparently representing the time the designer pretended to be his own press officer to attract her to one of his shows. Each played out their role in Mossi’s courtroom drama.
It was all very tongue-in-cheek, in contrast with the gravitas of the Palais de Justice, which for all its spectacular wood paneling and frescoed ceilings is controlled by the French armed forces. The fashion crowd queued to be allowed into the building one by one, delaying the show start time by nearly an hour. “It’s the first time I’ve seen people in a hurry to go into court,” joked one official.
While the concept was fun, it was perhaps a distraction for those who wanted to see proof of Traoré’s skill as a designer, of which he is most definitely guilty.
