MILAN — With the Milano Cortina Winter Olympics wrapped and ahead of the Paralympics, the city was buzzing with tourists and the energy was palpable during fashion week here, just before the news of the war in the Middle East broke on Saturday. It was a season of debuts, from Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi to Demna’s first runway show at Gucci and Meryll Rogge at Marni, as well as Silvana Armani at Giorgio Armani.
Even with the concerns over the Iran attack and as luxury stocks fell worldwide, retailers left Milan on an upbeat note, praising Italian creativity and craftsmanship as well as the wearability of the garments presented on and off the runways — and Prada‘s lesson in styling.
“Creativity ran high in Milan this season, with designers leaning into Italian craft in thoughtful and modern ways. There was a clear balance between pragmatism and provocation,” said Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew. “What stood out most was the strength of identity across houses, particularly from new creative leadership. We leave Milan energized and confident that the clarity of vision will resonate with our customer.”
“It was a confident and cohesive Milan. From the debut at Fendi to the continued evolution of Bottega Veneta, alongside consistently strong collections from Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana and Etro, the season demonstrated a clear focus on product and purpose,” said Simon Longland, director of buying — fashion at Harrods. “There is a noticeable shift away from excess towards substance — collections grounded in craftsmanship, wearability, and long-term value, which aligns closely with how our customer is choosing to invest today.”
Craftsmanship allowed brands to present looks that were embellished with feathers, sequins, laces and intricately detailed and the fabrics research — at Bottega Veneta, among others — resonated with retailers. On the other end of the spectrum, architectural looks and a new form of minimalism, at Jil Sander for example, were also cited.
Trends also included: strong outerwear; layering; masculine and feminine codes living together — exemplified by Chiuri’s take at Fendi; pony hair, shearling, and exotic skins; cocooning shapes; a dose of sensual designs, and the return of the stiletto heel.
Bottega Veneta
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Here, retailers’ views on the Milan fall 2026 season.
Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Prada, Marni, Jil Sander, Ferragamo.
Best presentation concept: Prada’s show concepts are a consistent source of inspiration, and this season Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons brought layering and transformation to life in real time on the runway, revealing how clothing can adapt and evolve with the rhythm of everyday life. I always look forward to the Brunello Cucinelli presentation at Casa Cucinelli. The food, the people, the music and of course the fashion. The atmosphere is warm and inviting with an Italian elegance.
Trendspotting: Embellishment was one of the key trends in Milan this season. In a city known for its craftsmanship, the beading, crystals, and intricate detailing felt thoughtful and elevated, adding emotion to even the most tailored and refined pieces. Brooches were the standout jewelry item of the season. From vintage-inspired crystal styles to leather-wrapped floral styles, there was a brooch for every customer on the Milan runways. Haircalf, exotic skins and printed leathers added texture across outerwear and accessories. Feathers injected an immediate sense of excitement into the fall collections. They brought movement, texture and a touch of escapism.
Must-have item: Tod’s initial charms will add a personal touch on everything from a belt to a silk scarf. Prada’s drawstring skirts and embellished pumps. The tailored outerwear at Bottega Veneta. New editions of Fendi’s iconic Baguette bag.
General comment on the season: This season in Milan felt like a study in balance; a return to precision and craft, but with personality very much intact. There was an undercurrent of confidence across the collections, where designers weren’t chasing spectacle, but instead refining their codes and pushing them forward in thoughtful ways. At Bottega Veneta, we saw impeccable tailoring and restraint while Prada embraced embellishment and a sense of play, offering pieces that invite personal styling. Jil Sander showed sexiness via razor-sharp tailoring and Gucci shifted the mood to a sleek, Tom Ford-era provocation, which was unapologetically seductive and fun.
Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Max Mara, Institution by Galib Gassanoff, Bottega Veneta. Prada is the highlight of the fashion week: Miuccia and Raf have presented one of their most beautiful collections in two years. They have introduced a new concept, a new way to consider styling. Max Mara is always the one making you crave for next winter and this season was not an exception. Their use of cashmere, warm tones and knitwear was a dream palette and an invitation to mix coziness and elegance. Jil Sander, with sophistication and new intellectualism, is one of the best collections of this season. The reinterpretation of what minimalism is, the equilibrium between cold colors, the perfect cuts. Every silhouette is an ode to freedom within discipline and pure lines. Institution, one of the finalists of the 2026 LVMH Prize, is definitely a new talent to follow. He delivered a beautiful sculptural and architectural collection, also highlighting the importance of authenticity and craftsmanship.
Best presentation concept: The Jimmy Choo shoes presentation with the technical drawing of shoe making. Fabiana Filippi in a unique palazzo with contra bass live music. Brunello Cucinelli’s seasonal home feeling and the models walking among us.
Trendspotting: The importance of fabric: Leather, fur, cashmere. Warmth and quality as investment pieces and a message of safety. Layering playing with them all, using also transparency to convey even more depth. Reinterpretation of minimalism, very well embodied by Jil Sander and the removal of layers at the Prada show. The purity of Max Mara. Skirts in every form, every length and texture, worn as the central piece, everything layered around to complete it. Marni, Prada, Gucci and Fendi all played a lot with femininity, rethinking the versatility of skirts. Warm and earthy tones were very important to convey a safe cozy feeling. In contradiction, full back outfits and shows offered a deeper perspective, a dark mirror of the world’s global energy.
Must-have item: A transparent embroidered skirt and python bag from Prada; a cashmere coat from Max Mara or Fabiana Filippi; a goat or astrakhan fur jacket from Brunello Cucinelli or Marni; a black full look from Gucci or Fendi; high-knee boots from Tod’s with the matching gloves; a blue shirt in layering under knits; a nude and anthracite combo from Jil Sander; a leather jacket or skirt.
Budgets: Budgets are steady and placed into investment pieces to reinforce the message of the collections to our customers: here is where it is safe to invest. But there’s always an extra pocket for new designers to support new talents and inject the right dose of creativity.
General comment on the season: The season polarized into two main trends: elegance and warmth and radical dark. This is a direct invitation to enhance our duality, and feel empowered by both our softness and darkness.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer at Mytheresa
Favorite collections: This season was defined by a handful of collections that married intellectual depth with real-world wearability, each delivering its own compelling narrative. Bottega Veneta under Louise Trotter impressed with a textured, architectural approach that fused Milanese Brutalism and sensuality into a wardrobe that felt both sculptural and imminently covetable. Complemented by the opulent classicism of Dolce & Gabbana, which leaned into its signature Sicilian glamour with precision and refined detail, this week reaffirmed Milan as a place where heritage and innovation coexist with unshakable confidence.
Best presentation concept: At Prada, the seamless rotation of the same model reappearing in multiple looks created a striking narrative device. It was a masterclass in fluidity and precision, reinforcing the collection’s cohesion while heightening its emotional impact. The simplicity of the concept made it all the more powerful.
Trendspotting: The return of the Fendi Baguette signals a renewed appetite for iconic, recognizable shapes with heritage value. At Gucci, the reintroduction of skinny leggings points to a sharper, more elongated silhouette emerging for next season. Across the board, the emphasis on noble materials underscored a decisive move toward tactility and elevated luxury.
Must-have item: The Fendi Baguette stands out as the season’s defining accessory. Its resurgence feels both nostalgic and forward‑looking, perfectly aligned with current customer appetite for timeless yet statement pieces. It is poised to be a key driver in next season’s assortment.
General comment on the season: There is a strong feeling that a new chapter is unfolding, particularly with the renewed creative direction at Gucci. Milan felt energized, with a sense of recalibration rather than disruption. It was a week defined by anticipation, an exciting prelude to what feels like a transformative era.
Gucci
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman
General comment on the season: Milan is having its moment. From the outgoing Olympics to the incoming fashion week, the Italian spirit, and pursuit of excellence and creativity, has been in high-performance mode, earning high marks. Debuts and sophomore collections at storied legacy houses elevated the energy and excitement, as the industry continues to evolve.
Favorite collections: Fendi, Prada, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana, Bottega Veneta.
Best presentation concept: The most exciting presentation concept was Prada’s approach to peeling back the layers of a woman’s sartorial and literal life, validating each state of un/dress through the utterly unique mechanism of sending out the same model styled four ways within the intellectually significant cross-section of an apartment building. This was one for the fashion history books.
Trendspotting: A wardrobe of outerwear is everything: A coat for all seasons and reasons. The striking power and purity of black silhouettes cut a strong story throughout. Surface: A celebration of the hand, artisanship and craft, which elevate and differentiate luxury product, seen in extraordinary textures, novelty, surfaces and techniques. Layering as a mode: Piled on or artfully peeled away. Shimmer infusions offered a sense of newness. A coexistence of masculine and feminine codes: Lace alongside strong tailoring. A sophisticated range of neutrals: Espresso, chocolate, walnut, as well as wine reds and cardinal. Fantasy elements: Flights of feathers, “Wuthering Heights”–worthy corsetry and lace. A renewed feminine polish as seen in new skirts and the ever present pointy high-heel stiletto.
Must-have item: A black skirt or pantsuit. A neo-preppy, simple crewneck sweater worn with a baby blue poplin shirt — cuffs visibly out. Don’t forget your gloves! An icon bag, such as the Fendi baguette.
Chloe King, direction, fashion and lifestyle at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Jil Sander, Prada, Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli.
Best presentation concept: Loro Piana’s paisley lined walls created the ideal intimate environment to admire every sublime detail. An underrated and brilliant colorist, Loro Piana’s eccentric sophistication was inspiring.
Trendspotting: It was a season defined by layers — evident not only in Prada’s radical show concept, but also in the broader styling approach that lent a sense of individuality to each look. The season’s silhouette is a bit narrower with lean skirts and slim suiting at Marni and Jil Sander. Heel heights are up, and sleek stilettos were featured in almost every show. There was a refocusing and reworking of iconic bag styles, most notably at Gucci and Fendi, where one embellished Baguette was more fabulous than the last.
Must-have item: Prada’s crystal dripping, perfectly lived-in pumps and lace-up boots went instantly viral for a reason. Wow.
General comment on the season: Craft is an insufficient word to capture the level of design innovation from the Italian houses this season. The bar was raised across the board while simultaneously prioritizing the wearer — couture-like execution with the lightest, most sumptuous materials. It was thrilling to see a strong second outing from Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander and Meryll Rogge’s thoughtful, studied vision for Marni — simultaneously authentic to the house’s core while offering a compelling proposition for today.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear at Selfridges
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, GCDS, Gucci, Bottega.
Best presentation concept: The way the models changed at the Prada show. It was great to see the same items come to life in different ways. It gave the show a very energetic and vibrant vibe.
Trendspotting: Knits and sweaters were on most runways.
Must-have item: The skirts in the Prada show.
Budgets: They remain overall positive.
Buying process: I’m looking forward to seeing the full showroom collections at Gucci, to see how they are being developed.
General comment on the season: Milan’s shows really lived up to the expectations this season and we are now excited to head to Paris.
Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Prada, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta.
Best presentation concept: Prada lingered for its sense of momentum and urgency, as layered clothes in motion, paired with a relentless techno beat, captured the pace of time and the complexity of a woman’s lived experience.
Trendspotting: Tailoring was a major throughline in Milan, with many collections offering strong, considered takes on modern silhouettes.There was a noticeable move toward more body‑skimming silhouettes, driven in large part by Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. Distressing emerged as a key detail, from worn fabrics at Prada to distressed leather accessories seen throughout the season. The return of the stiletto stood out on runways like Fendi and Gucci, signaling a shift back toward sharper, more sensual footwear. This season’s balance of masculine and feminine came through from Dolce & Gabbana’s romantic lace paired with tailored jackets to Ferragamo’s cocooning wool coats styled with ‘20s‑inspired finale dresses.
Must-have item: Prada’s double‑sided coats truly stood out, designed to evolve with the wearer and offer a sophisticated take on versatility, with luminous embellishment balanced by raw, distressed elements. The monogrammed belts at Tod’s, a clever way to give shape to a great piece of outerwear.
General comment on the season: Milan this season felt reflective. There was a recalibration happening across the runways, from the reset at Gucci to the intellectual rigor at Prada and the quiet strength coming through at Jil Sander and Tod’s, and notably the foundational show under creative director Silvana Armani, which thoughtfully engaged Mr. Armani’s legacy while setting a clear, steady path forward. Designers seemed to be asking what Italian fashion means right now—heritage, yes, but also restraint, sensuality, and confidence without excess.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer at Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander and Prada.
Best presentation concept: Definitely the Prada show, with its layering narrative that explored how women truly want to dress. Presented on just 15 models, the show featured 15 outfits styled in 60 different ways through the concept of layering, with a layer being removed each time a model walked, revealing a new interpretation of the same look. This concept really stood out.
Trendspotting: There was a strong presence of black this season, alongside lace details, structured tailoring, shearling trims and ’90s-inspired silhouettes.
Must-have item: Gucci’s black eye slit dress from look 81 was beautiful and a definitely must-have. I also loved the green bomber with the brown shearling-trimmed collar from look 34, as well as the navy track pants worn by Elsa Hosk in look 38 — the whole look felt very nonchalant, yet incredibly chic. The studded white mary jane slippers from Bottega Veneta are a must-have, along with the strong masculine tailoring seen at Dolce & Gabbana.
General comment on the season: So far this season we’ve seen lots of wearable pieces, with many collections leaning into elevated day-to-night dressing. There’s a clear emphasis on pieces that transition effortlessly throughout the day, often through refined tailoring and sophisticated layering.
Jil Sander
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Victoria Dartigues, buying director, women’s ready-to-wear and accessories at Galeries Lafayette:
Favorite collections: Prada, Fendi, Jil Sander, Marni, Bottega Veneta.
Focusing on Simone Bellotti for Jil Sander, he delivered a beautiful collection with architectural tailoring, clean lines, and a high level of elegance. Meryll Rogge’s first show felt like a return to Consuelo Castiglioni’s DNA, mixing eclectic creativity with wearable wardrobe pieces. Maria Grazia Chiuri delivered her first show for Fendi with a clear statement, highlighting exceptional craftsmanship, strong wearability, and a coherent vision rooted in Roman heritage with a modern edge. Of course, Gucci marked a strong new era with Demna’s debut, blending Tom Ford-era sensual heritage with his own subversive aesthetic. Eager to see what this next chapter will bring.
Best presentation concept: With only 15 models presenting 60 looks, Prada emphasized versatile wardrobes and extreme layering techniques. It was a very interesting and dynamic demonstration of how women think about their day-to-night looks, rather than pure static styling.
Trendspotting: The season balanced structured tailoring, rich textures, and neutral palettes with bold accents, as we saw at Jil Sander and Fendi. On the other hand, high-energy eclectic wardrobes were seen at Prada and Marni, with more expressive styling mixing vintage and contemporary references. Athletic codes also remained present, with pieces like tracksuit jackets and skirts integrated into business tailoring at MM6.
Must-have item: Gucci’s tight micro minidresses; Prada’s sheer skirts and heavy-structured jackets; Fendi’s black fur-accent outerwear and the soft Baguette bag evolution; Marni’s patterned knitwear and leather Western details skirt.
General comment on the season: Milan remains a place where Italian fashion heritage meets contemporary creativity. With the current context and uncertainties, luxury houses and designers are prioritizing wearable, mix-and-match wardrobes rather than purely statement fashion.
Tiziana Fausti, owner of 10 Corso Como and Tiziana Fausti
Favorite collection: Prada. Once again, it managed to shift the axis of the conversation. There is a subtle tension between rigor and deconstruction that makes the collection extremely contemporary. It is an exercise in precision and restraint yet charged with a strong emotional energy.
Best presentation concept: Gucci. The show delivered a powerful visual impact but not as an end in itself. The narrative was coherent and immersive, capable of creating an immediate connection with the audience. A well-balanced dialogue between heritage and an innovative vision.
Trendspotting: Layering. Thoughtful stratification, intelligent overlaps, and a mix of weights and proportions. Layering becomes an architectural construction of the look rather than simple styling: dresses over trousers, multiple outerwear, sheers layered over structured fabrics. A sophisticated way to interpret the complexity of the present moment.
Must-have item: Embroidered pumps by Prada. A shoe that perfectly encapsulates the spirit of the season: precise yet strong femininity, decoration used as a graphic statement rather than excess.
Budgets: This season calls for a targeted and conscious investment. Less quantity, more identity. The focus should be on strong, recognizable pieces capable of building a clear and distinctive narrative in-store.
General comment on the season: It has been a transitional season but also marked by strong design clarity. Milan showed a new maturity: less noise, more substance.
Isabelle Fine, director of women’s fashion at Groupe Bon Marché (Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche – Samaritaine)
Favorite collections: Prada with its complex layering and unexpected contrasts, Bottega Veneta for its sublime textures and colors, Jil Sander for its refined and poetic minimalism and precise cuts, Gucci for its assumed ’90s silhouettes and finally Fendi for its structured elegance.
Best presentation concept: Prada with its 15 models and 60 looks and its conceptual exploration of silhouettes.
Trendspotting: Assumed and controlled sensuality, fluid tailoring that enhances the silhouette, layering that tells a story, and rather harmonious colors including deep black, gray, brick red, beige, and chocolate.
Must-have item: The coat as an essential piece of the look, the blazer, the ultra-sensual backless dress, bold heels and shoes and colorful scarves as accessories.
General comment on the season: An edition marked by important debuts and major transitions for certain houses (Gucci, Fendi and Marni), creativity framed in response to a tense economic context. A nice balance between heritage and renewal.
April Hennig, president at Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Prada was conceptually brilliant while also delivering a collection that examined the act of dressing itself, balancing intellectual rigor with undeniable desirability. Louise Trotter’s second runway collection for Bottega Veneta rooted in Milanese Brutalism was a stunning example of her visual artistry while exhibiting an extraordinary use of material.
Best presentation concept: Prada’s rethinking of the standard show template was so clever — the models each walking four times, shedding layers and swapping accessories with each appearance. It showcased the versatility of the pieces in real time, and mirrored how a woman’s wardrobe shifts throughout a day or season. For his Gucci runway debut, Demna harnessed the power of celebrity while also commenting on the intersection of fame and fashion. From the casting to the walks, it’s clear he’s bringing his unique perspective and deep understanding of pop culture to the house.
Trendspotting: Outerwear leaned into maritime and military signatures, especially the wool pea coats at Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo and Etro. Fur and shearling continue to be a go-to material for making a major statement — there were oversized, contrasting fur collars at Fendi, color-blocked shearling teddies at Bottega Veneta, and shearling shrugs and capes at Gucci and Tod’s. For day-to-day dressing, leggings made a comeback at Jil Sander, Tod’s, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci, and layered shirting under knitwear was a popular styling choice at Prada, Bottega Veneta and Tod’s. In terms of eveningwear, there was a sense of nocturnal nostalgia — designers looked at nightlife dressing from bygone eras and reimagined it for today — and, in several instances, showed it against a techno soundtrack. There was also a 1920s feel to several closing looks at Fendi (the shimmering nude dresses and the flapper fringe) and Ferragamo (liquid gold and drop-waist peplums). Crocodile, both real and embossed leather, which we saw a lot of in New York, is capturing a lot of designers’ imaginations in Milan as well — we saw this texture at Prada, Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo and Des_Phemmes. In the accessories world, we’re seeing a return to ladylike accoutrements like pumps, clutches and gloves.
Must-have item: Accessories stood out this season. Maria Grazia Chiuri delivered incredible novelty Baguettes at Fendi — from patchwork shearling to technicolor beading. The horsebit Ristretto shoulder bags at Gucci, the oversized totes at Bottega Veneta and the foldable Re-Nylon and croc-embossed bags at Prada offered new interest to the day bag category. For evening, it’s all about the liquid gold dresses at Ferragamo (paired with the croc point-toe pumps) and the embroidered drawstring waist skirts at Prada. There were some strong outerwear looks as well —the shearling-lined coats and vests at Fendi, the hourglass coats at Bottega Veneta, the studded leather jackets at Etro and the goat fur coat at Marni.
Beppe Nugnes, president of Nugnes 1920
Favorite collections: My top picks were Gucci and Prada, as both houses masterfully balanced heritage with a sharp, modern attitude.
Best presentation concept: Gucci stood out; the atmosphere was perfectly curated to amplify the new creative direction.
Trendspotting: The focus has shifted to absolute black — a return to a rigorous, sophisticated, and monochromatic elegance.
Must-have item: Without a doubt, the Fendi Baguette, which continues to be the definitive accessory of the season.
Budgets: Spending is becoming more calculated, focusing on high-impact investment pieces rather than volume.
Buying process: We are selecting items that bridge the gap between runway drama and wearable, high-end commercial appeal.
General comment on the season: Lace and sheer fabrics dominated the runways. It’s a season for a sensual, powerful woman who embraces risk; the collections were challenging but visually stunning.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Prada, Marni, Bottega Veneta, Gucci.
Best presentation concept: Loro Piana transported us on a fashion train journey rooted in fabric innovation. The presentation felt romantic and immersive, celebrating the elegance of the well-dressed traveler while reinforcing the brand’s authority in textile development.
Trendspotting: Experimental craft. Craft was the through line of the week, approached with experimentation in fabric and silhouette. Jil Sander, Tod’s, Bottega Veneta, and Prada each explored construction in a way that felt intentional rather than decorative.
Textural layering: Prada led this conversation, showing the versatility of layered dressing across multiple looks. Marni, Missoni, and Ferragamo built dimension through tweed, shearling, and leather, creating depth without excess.
Monochromatic dressing: Head-to-toe color was a clear styling direction. Forest green emerged as a defining shade for fall, seen at Max Mara, Fendi, Etro, and Brunello Cucinelli.
Must-have items: Prada embellished jacket; Bottega Veneta vanity case; Loro Piana corduroy set; Brunello Cucinelli shearling jacket; Fendi canvas Baguette; Ferragamo Cara bag; Tod’s monogrammed belts.
Backstage at Marni.
Mirella Malaguti/WWD
Ludovica La Mela, women’s buying supervisor at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta. It continues to impress with its refined craftsmanship and unique textural approach.
Best presentation concept: Gucci. Demna’s show has been an immersive experience, blending theatricality with a strong sense of brand identity.
Trendspotting: Prada, always ahead in terms of innovation, whether in material experimentation, silhouettes, or unexpected combinations.
Must-have item: This season, the must-have items for me are all about maxi outerwear and layering. Oversized coats, structured yet enveloping silhouettes, and shearling pieces really define the look. I’m also excited about XXL bags, they make a strong statement while remaining practical.
Budgets: The approach on budgets will be generally conservative. I prefer to invest in a few key pieces that are versatile and will stand the test of time, rather than spreading across many trend-driven items.
General comment on the season: This season, black is back in full force, but when color appears, it’s bold. Voluminous, structured, and enveloping coats dominate, along with a lot of shearling the outerwear really becomes a key stylistic manifesto. There’s a strong focus on creative visions, notable debuts, decisive minimalism, relaxed tailoring, and, importantly, real-life wearability.
Simon Longland, director of buying – fashion at Harrods
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Prada.
Best presentation concept: Inspired by poetry and travel, the Loro Piana presentation created a calm, immersive environment that allowed guests to engage closely with the product. This sense of proximity — being able to truly see and feel the craftsmanship — was powerful. It reflected a quiet confidence, where the product itself remains the focus.
Trendspotting: There has been a clear shift toward intelligent, enduring dressing that defined the season. Layering was central but approached with nuance — less about heavy winter dressing and more about modularity, allowing garments to transition across seasons. The color palette drew from natural landscapes — sand, stone, and earthy tones — offering a sense of calm and permanence. Red emerged as a precise accent color, used sparingly but with impact. We also saw a modern approach to lace, and a continued focus on tailoring — structured, yet increasingly fluid in execution.
Kate Benson, chief merchant at Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Max Mara, Jil Sander, Missoni.
Best presentation concept: Prada — the reduction of models to 15 and the reinterpretation of the same looks posed an interesting question about consumption and the enduring longevity of clothes that are built to last and meant to be worn over again in different ways.
Trendspotting: All black, classically sexy very feminine silhouettes, leather and suede remain very important.
Must-have item: Dramatic outerwear in shearlings and faux furs.
Budgets: Our budgets are up as we continue with the transformation of Harvey Nichols.
General comment on the season: If the word of SS26 was “joy,” AW26 felt more about restraint. Ideas felt distilled with reinforcement in each of the looks, be they from Missoni with the repetition of a similar silhouette, or Prada, which showed different presentations and styling of the same look. Many of the shows opened with several looks of total black, where the focus becomes about subtleties in texture, fabrics and draping to make a statement.
Caterina Ercoli, senior buyer womenswear at Antonioli
Favorite collections: Prada, MM6, Jil Sander.
Best presentation concept: Gucci, Jil Sander.
Trendspotting: Layering, formal wear, bold shoulders, leather, and printed croc or anaconda.
Must-have item: Strong-shouldered blazer jacket, laced shoes, long coat, ankle socks.
Budgets: Flat.
General comment on the season: Key looks and iconic styles are focused more on silhouettes than prints. Layering is a dominant trend.
Andrea Bonecco, head of buying womenswear, menswear, kids at Rinascente
Favorite collections: Prada for its layering, the sexuality of Dolce & Gabbana, the relaxed silhouettes of Jil Sander, the elegance of Giorgio Armani, the return to the roots of Fendi, the undisputed craftsmanship of Bottega Veneta.
Best presentation concept: Gucci.
Trendspotting: The strongest trend is black. Many collections have presented various black garments and some brands had it as the only color on the catwalk.
Must-have item: Every piece of the women’s wardrobe proposed in black will be fashionable.
Budgets and buying process: We will invest heavily in our bestselling brands.
General comment on the season: A season in which the brands looked much at their origins and roots.
