“There’s more that joins us together than separates us. We live in a very chaotic world right about now, and we need to come together…until we listen there’s more, because we’re allowing them to divide us too much,” Tokyo James said backstage before his fall show.
The British Nigerian designer aptly titled his fall 2026 collection “Harmony” and seemed to be evoking homey feelings throughout via enveloping textures counterpointed by the sleek silhouettes — business and after-hours attire for him and urban glam for her.
A lot of the pieces suggested cocooning comfort: the range of terrycloth-looking or carpet-like but wool-made boxy suits for women and men alike; a smile-inducing, drop-shouldered robe coat in sunflower yellow; the button-front long frock in a honeycomb-patterned fabric, often associated with bath linens, and the handsome power coats with built-in scarves flipped around the neck or worn as head coverings. Even the ‘70s-nodding unisex shirt crafted from an organza-like, paper-thin fabric — which “breathes,” the designer said — a little creased and worn-in, suggested the intimacy one may experience in the private space of their home.
In between, James incorporated many of the craft-intensive pieces and artisanal techniques that have gained him popularity, including hand-weaving for the leather pants of the opening look and the zip-front jackets that followed or beadwork appearing on the bottom half of leopard print jeans with a matching shirt and leather pants.
They didn’t necessarily meld with James’ evolving fashion vision — which felt more restrained, directional and wearable than in the past — but restated where the designer’s creativity comes from. Since gaining a global stage a few seasons back by joining the Milan calendar, he has come a long way.
