Pierre-Louis Mascia centered his fall 2026 collection around the concept of omens. In dark times, he’s trying to find answers in signs and unlock the vibrant power of his clashing prints and patterns.
In his quest to turn clothes into talismans, he wove an astrological narrative into the collection, linking a specific print and look to each zodiac sign and tapping French writer Avril Bénard to pen different texts to poetically mark the matches.
For one, the designer’s sign, Gemini, was associated with a floral print on an elegant velvet robe, while Aries — this writer’s own — was linked with a faded botanical motif splashed over a corduroy zippered jacket and matching wide-legged pants.
In general, the collection didn’t offer much novelty on the designer’s signature styles. Mascia stayed true to his maximalist, mix-and-match aesthetic. The mainstays of his fashion, patterns and fluidity were again exalted by clashing prints and elongated, layered silhouettes, with light long coats tossed over pajama sets; velvet devoré dresses and tops; relaxed tailoring, and enveloping outerwear at the forefront, in most cases oozing a vintage-y feeling.
Offering a counterpoint to all the patterns was Mascia’s continued experimentation with denim in trompe-l’oeil separates or the silk collars of knits.
Looking ahead, the stars are aligning for the brand Mascia launched in 2007. Encouraged by a 38 percent increase in sales last year, his label is to relocate its Milan store to a bigger space later this month.
