One of the most trenchant, amusing phrases of the spring 2026 Milan season was Miuccia Prada describing Prada’s wispy version of a crucial female undergarment that season as a “useless bra.”
Watching the Sportmax show on Friday morning, which featured double-face vests — essentially open-front tabards anchored by a low-slung back belt — the words “useless coat” came to mind.
There were also heftier, padded trenchcoats that were slit on the sides right up to the ribcage, and classic overcoats with the back slit up to the shoulder blades.
But in a world of topsy-turvy weather, Sportmax may be on to something, giving the look of a coat without feeling smothered. Ventilation is a good thing, as anyone who has ever popped a bare leg out from the duvet knows.
“There is no clutter weighing the Sportmax woman down” is how the show notes phrased it.
This slinky, sliced-up collection also brought to mind the clean and slyly sexy sportswear pioneered by the likes of Calvin Klein. The models whisked through the minimalist, gallery-like space, the panels of their spare, slashed clothes drifting free. They looked cool.
Some of the jersey gowns felt almost too bare and minimal, not completely resolved, but they will surely look great in photos. As a foil were meaty leather blousons, aviator jackets with shearling collars and cool shirt jackets and jeans jackets for busy women on the go.
