All walks of life course through Milano Centrale, one of Italy’s busiest train stations, and on Wednesday night there were an inordinate number of fashion people who converged there for MM6 Maison Margiela’s spirited fall show.
The commuter conceit gave rise to several looks that might be described as “dressing in haste,” when the lining of a leather coat spills out from the collar, for example, giving the impression of satin lapels. The hems of several car coats were rolled up — as some cyclists do — and held in place with metal snaps.
The garish color combinations used for train crew uniforms were employed for track jackets and mélange quarter-zips in generous ’80s proportions, which appeared throughout the collection.
But most of the clothes fell outside the loose transport theme, telegraphing a sly equestrian chic: streamlined sweats with the allure of jodhpurs, trim shirt jackets and pants backed with jersey, riding boots galore and frilly petticoats, worn with everything from plaid shirts to fuzzy, cowl-neck sweaters.
Throughout were impressive fabrics and textures, including leather coats, dresses and skirts resembling bleached denim, and handsome velvet blousons with lovely, lived-in patinas.
Censor-bar sunglasses in a new rounded form were worn by the entire cast, lending every look an aloof cool that could help fend off panhandlers and unwanted conversations in a busy station.
