MILAN — Storied Italian hatmaker Borsalino is plotting its development in Greater China.
To this end, it has inked a strategic long-term partnership with Essence Group, a leading China-based luxury brand marketing and distribution group.
The five-year growth plan will see the opening of Borsalino’s first store in Shanghai in the first half of the year. As part of the agreement, Borsalino will progressively roll out 50 monobrand boutiques in five years, in strategic locations such as Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan.
A sketch of the new Borsalino store in Shanghai.
“This project is ambitious and the agreement marks an important step for the brand,” Mauro Baglietto, managing director of Borsalino, said in an interview. “We have worked to relaunch Borsalino and to extend our product offer, but in an evolution as a global brand, it was fundamental to develop the Greater China area. It was necessary to find the right and solid partner with knowledge of the market, and we found it in Essence Group.”
He highlighted Essence Group’s “deep understanding of the local market, extensive experience in the luxury segment and proven capability to translate strategy into disciplined, high-quality execution.”
Borsalino’s brand awareness is strong in China, based on the spending of Chinese customers around the world and in Europe in particular, explained Baglietto, but the company lacked distribution in the area.
“This partnership allows us to invest in a structured way in retail development, with the objective of creating a network of monobrand boutiques that will authentically express our heritage and build a direct, long-lasting relationship with Chinese consumers.”
Baglietto touted the shared vision with Essence Group, “one of growth based on quality, Made in Italy artisan craftsmanship, consistency and respect for the brand’s identity. We want to convey our values; this is not a marketing exercise.”
At the same time, the executive is banking on the Shanghai store “to become a key reference point for the brand’s establishment in the market and a cornerstone of an omnichannel strategy.”
E-commerce will be developed as a subsequent phase of the project through the launch of a Borsalino online flagship during 2026 and Baglietto said Essence Group was also selected for its online expertise. “This initiative will further extend the brand’s reach with a digital strategy to be supported by a targeted focus on customer acquisition and brand storytelling across key platforms such as RED, Douyin and WeChat, reinforcing our visibility and narrative consistency across major digital touch points,” he remarked.
He was upbeat about prospects, and, to be sure, as reported, a new Bernstein report found that discretionary spending is beginning to recover in China and, during the latest reporting period, luxury groups from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton to Burberry have begun to see clearer signs of recovery in the Chinese market.
Menswear at Borsalino represents 60 percent of sales, but Baglietto said that, given women often buy men’s styles, the percentage is evenly split. Both genders will be available in China, where Baglietto expects men’s to have a bigger weight. “The fit will be adapted to the market, where customers are more inclined to buy for protection and function, compared to the more fashion-oriented trends in Europe and the U.S.”
There are currently 20 stores globally, in cities ranging from Milan and London, to Paris, Monte Carlo and Cannes. There are also three shops-in-shop in Japan, another key market for Borsalino.
The brand is available in 45 countries at around 400 points of sale.
Americans are also top Borsalino customers around the world, but there are no stores in the U.S. yet, although the brand is available for example at Bergdorf Goodman.
Following the opening of a store in Linate airport in October 2021, “a great success,” said Baglietto, two units opened in Rome’s Fiumicino airport, one in Malpensa and one at the airport in Venice.
“Our customers travel a lot,” he said, an observation that led to the development of new styles that can be rolled up and return to its original shape. “We have researched new shapes and materials to render our hats more modern, younger and functional.” The rafia crochet, packable Argentina model has become one of the bestsellers for the brand, he said.
Borsalino’s packable Argentina style.
Borsalino has also been modernizing its offer, partnering with brands ranging from Saint Laurent and Ami to Chloe, Yohji Yamamoto, Elie Saab and Vilebrequin.
The brand was founded in 1857 and has been owned by Haeres Equita since 2018. Baglietto, who joined the company at the end of 2020, declined to provide sales figures but said that retail growth “allowed us to close 2025 in alignment with 2024.”
Separately, in a statement, Alec Hou, founder and CEO of Essence Group, trumpeted Borsalino as “one of those rare maisons whose authority is immediately recognized by the most discerning consumers, even across different cultures.”
He also underscored “the long-term development framework that respects and safeguards Borsalino’s heritage while translating its relevance for a new generation of consumers in Greater China. At Essence, we see ourselves as custodians of brand meaning, and we are proud to support Borsalino in this new chapter.”
