Efficiency Key for Denim Première Vision Exhibitors 

MILAN — At the fifth edition of Denim Première Vision in Milan, it was clear that exhibitors had a strategy in mind for spring 2027: efficient innovations.  

The two-day trade show was held at Superstudio Più at the Tortona district in Milan and closed on Nov. 27. It drew 2,300 visitors, up 10 percent from last year. However, the number of exhibitors declined to 65, compared to 71.

The event featured nine conferences on innovation and the future, with sustainability as the common thread, including talks by Denim Dudes founder Amy Leverton and designer and denim veteran Adriano Goldschmied.

“This edition once again demonstrated the remarkable vitality and excellence of our community, as well as the denim ecosystem as a whole,” said show director Fabio Adami. “The high level of engagement and quality of professional exchanges during these two days further strengthen our commitment to delivering an ever more premium and relevant event, perfectly aligned with the market’s evolving dynamics in all its dimensions.”

“S|Style — Denim Lab,” the 2025 edition of S|Style, the platform designed to connect fashion, responsibility and new talent founded by journalist and stylist Giorgia Cantarini in 2020, was the guest project of this edition, which was supported by the Milan-based research center Kering Material Innovation Lab (MIL). This center partnered with eight brands that presented their collections in the Fashion District area. 

Since the project was focused on denim and responsible water management, as part of Kering’s ongoing commitment to driving sustainability across the fashion industry, the designers used advanced technologies for dyeing, washing and finishing to reduce water usage and minimize or eliminate harmful chemicals provided by two Italian companies, Pure Denim and Tonello. The collections align with Kering’s Water Strategy, aiming for a net water-positive impact by 2050.

Kristian Guerra, head designer at 44 Level Group, was the art director behind the Denim Forum, a concept he created to showcase trends for spring 2027. The forum featured sketches and fabric swatches with innovative materials from exhibitors, offering a glimpse into the future of denim.

Another addition was the new Denim Index area, which showcased over 150 fabric and accessory samples from 30 exhibitors, highlighting trends like printing techniques, coated fabrics, and workwear with solid constructions.

“We are moving away from quiet luxury,” said Julieta Mercerat, product manager of the fashion department at Denim Première Vision. “People are less afraid of showing what they like and are moving to a more expressive way of dressing and they are taking more risks.”

The trade show renewed its commitment to students by welcoming them to the event and hosting the prestigious Botticino School of Restoration in Milan. Students from the textile restoration course and from the fashion styling course showcased a collaborative denim capsule collection highlighting the intersection of fashion and restoration expertise.

On the business side, the exhibitors were optimistic about the current year, confirming their initial predictions of a positive trend following a recovery in 2024. 

Selen Baltaci, marketing manager at Calik Denim, highlighted the importance of key markets, including the U.S. and the Far East, particularly Japan, where the Turkish denim mill is investing heavily.

Strong demand is coming from the U.S., Europe, Australia and South America, according to Lucas Van de Woestyne, Europe market director at Freedom Denim, highlighting the mill’s serving both small and large brands across these regions.

“We’re growing despite the market downturn. Brazil is opening up, and Bangladesh is doing well,” said Alberto De Conti, marketing and business development at Officina 39. “We’re focusing on strategic markets where we can make a real impact.”

Melissa D’Innella, export sales manager at Xlance, which is more focused on sportswear and beachwear, said the start-up is expanding into denim, despite the slowdown in this industry. “Introducing new things and possibilities is what drives us forward.”

Exhibitors, from Officina 39 to Freedom Denim, showcased innovations and collections, balancing efficiency, cost-effectiveness and creativity, offering products that are both fashionable and sustainable.

“We can clearly see this year’s trends: printing techniques continue to be popular, alongside coated fabrics, decorative patterns, and romantic designs. There’s a shift away from synthetic fibers and a clear preference for workwear-inspired pieces with solid constructions and a focus on durability,” explained Mercerat.

Calik Denim has launched its latest collection called “evogenery,” showcasing eight product categories that highlight the company’s innovative features. For example, the Revo-Su waterless dry technology eliminates water usage in dyeing and finishing, generating zero chemical waste and saving 1,400,000 cubic meters of water in the dyeing process alone. This technology is available for different elasticity levels, from rigid to comfort and super stretch.

Another important debut is the Re-Essence concept, focusing on regenerative agriculture. This model supports regenerative farming practices, offering comfort and rigid Ecru and PFD (prepared for dyeing) fabrics with blends like cotton-linen, recycled cotton, and modal Tencel, as well as 100 percent recycled alternatives. The concept also features Calik Denim’s biodegradable technology dubbed B210, which enables fabric to biodegrade by over 99 percent in 210 days.

“It’s crucial for us to integrate sustainable solutions, as customers increasingly prefer denim with eco-innovations, which has become a must-have,” said Calik Denim’s Baltaci.

China-based Freedom Denim focused on developing lightweight, plant-based fibers. One innovation is “The Best of Bast,” which celebrates raw materials like hemp, ramie, and linen offering breathability and durability. The expansion into ramie, with its linen-like properties, has allowed the sustainable mill to deliver an artisanal feel to the garments. 

Another introduction was the “Golden bamboo,” an organic, traceable bamboo viscose fabric made from organically grown bamboo with a traceable and certified supply chain. This fabric is soft, breathable, and moisture-wicking, suitable for everyday wear, claimed Freedom Denim.

Van de Woestyne noted that clients seek authentic fibers that are lightweight and soft, driving demand for new textures. “They are exploring innovative textures that combine authenticity with comfort,” he explained. 

Among the new technologies, Freedom Denim presented the “bio indigo technology,” created through a process where the indigo molecule is produced and introduced into bacteria, allowing the color to become part of the bacteria’s genome. It results in a vibrant indigo color with deep saturation which, unlike traditional indigo dyeing that has subtle variations and casts, delivers a clean and uniform shade. 

Turkish denim mill DNM Denim was inspired for its spring 2027 collection by four concepts: Back 2K, Neo Future, Silent Code, and Signature.

Back 2K reimagines the digital dreams of the early 2000s, with low-rise silhouettes, micro miniskirts, and expressive denim textures. The color palette features faded blacks, dirty yellows, and rusty browns. Silent Code combines premium Tencel-linen blends, refined surfaces, and tailored silhouettes. Signature reinterprets the classic denim styles with refined fiber compositions and different wash effects. 

The Italian laundry Officina 39 focused on creativity and efficiency in its “Shades of Sunset” collection, developing innovative chemical solutions that match or exceed traditional processes. The laundry considers sustainability as an efficient alternative that optimizes processes without compromising aesthetics and creativity.

The best example is the ZeroPP|All In technique, which replaces potassium permanganate in denim finishing with a one-cycle system. The process involves a streamlined sequence: application on raw garments, laser definition, dry ozone development (with no rinse step), and final washes and finishing. This eliminates PP spray, reducing time, energy, and water consumption by 63 percent, while increasing safety and transparency.

“By optimizing every stage of the laundry process, technologies like ZeroPP|All In turns garment finishing into a true value generator, delivering measurable environmental reductions and tangible financial savings,” said De Conti. 

Italian company Xlance, part of the Carvico textile group, showcased its sustainable alternative to spandex, a cross-linked polyolefin-based elastic yarn, at the fair. Xlance partnered with three Italian companies to demonstrate its growing presence in the denim market. 

“We chose these Italian companies that represented Italian excellence,” said Filippo Colnaghi, brand manager of Xlance. 

The collaboration with the Pure Denim mill resulted in a denim engineered for consistent stretch performance over time. Xlance fiber maintains elasticity even after intensive finishing processes and multiple wash cycles, preserving the fabric’s initial state. The garment-maker and laundry company Elleti Group tested the Xlance fiber’s stability in complex constructions. The fabrics showed consistent responsiveness and high stability, maintaining stretch performance and softness even after intensive treatments. Garment finishing technology company Tonello’s tests confirmed Xlance fiber’s superior stability and elasticity, withstanding demanding processes while maintaining comfort and performance.

“Through advanced technologies, we’ve brought new life to historic fabrics and structures, creating pieces that are both responsible and enduring,” said Paolo Gnutti, creative director of Isko Luxury by PG. “This collection is an invitation to choose consciously, honoring memory while embracing a respectful and sustainable outlook on what’s to come.”

The collection features the Recode Denim technology, using recycled materials and advanced fiber recovery techniques. It’s structured into six capsules, each embodying a renewed, evolved, and authentic denim. The “noble” line features precious yarns like silk, wool, linen, and hemp, creating refined fabrics. The military heritage capsule is inspired by herringbone twill, blending structure, authenticity, and modern style.

“We’re introducing a new capsule every two months, each with a different theme, anticipating trends,” Gnutti said. “Despite the challenging market, we’re growing, offering a product that gives us an edge. We’re supporting brands in model development, and our capsules stimulate customer interest,” he said.