If there is one person who needs a peaceful moment, it’s Meryll Rogge.

“I have a lot going on right now,” quipped the Belgian designer backstage before her spring show.

Understatement of the year, given that in addition to her own brand, which netted her the Grand Prize at this year’s ANDAM Awards, she was recently named creative director at Marni. And if that wasn’t enough, in September she launched knitwear label B.B. Wallace with British knitwear maven Sarah Allsopp.

With so many avenues to express her creativity, Rogge said she “felt totally free to do whatever [she] wanted” under her own name.

Despite all this, she somehow carved out time to read the autobiography of American actress Cookie Mueller, which triggered thoughts of carefree attitudes and freedom that lead down myriad roads.

The spring collection built around the idea of “layering all these things, all these experiences,” she said. “This is about creating a free space for self expression.”

That much was clear from an eclectic lineup that felt like a wardrobe collected through a rather colorful life. A pseudo-wedding dress dropped in the middle had the designer commenting it represented less a finality than “a phase.”

There were plenty of different ones here, from preppy with knit vests, mid-blue jeans and featherlight coats in worsted wool; a glamorous angle rife with gowns, and a punk moment, where shorts were cut out of tan slacks, dresses made of band merch and T-shirts were knotted into midriff-baring tanks.

Thrown in the mix were the first footwear of the brand, variations around the boat shoe that included a knee-high take, and punky jewelry, courtesy of a collaboration with 40-year-old jeweler Wouters & Hendricks.  

They rounded out a collection where the strongest story was Rogge’s dab hand at construction, of clothes as much as narratives. That should give retailers across all her projects a modicum of comfort.