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    Vetements Spring 2026: Every Day Is Like Doomsday

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    During the backstage huddle at the Louis Vuitton show on Tuesday, a journalist asked Nicolas Ghesquière if his collection was a reaction to “the horror of the outside world.”

    Great question; wrong show.

    The spring Vetements display on Friday afternoon took place in a raw concrete space strung with job-site string lights. It opened with the sound of barking dogs, strobe lights, and the sight of masked models wearing T-shirts bearing swastikas covered with the red ‘No’ symbol.

    It closed with a model wearing a bulging black dress and weeping her eyes out. Yeesh!

    Thankfully, in between were some fun clubwear paraded to slick techno, including skinny jeans, fierce leather coats with face-swallowing collars, and cropped T-shirts and shrunken polos.

    Detours included many Margiela-isms: the stocking face masks, the hosiery as clothing, and the deconstructed trenchcoats and tailoring, the latter extremely well done, often splayed open at the back.

    There was also a Barbour-like jacket on Karolina Kurková, Winnie Harlow in a strong-shouldered version of the polka dot dress Julia Roberts wore in “Pretty Woman,” and a sendup of the pink gown Gwyneth Paltrow wore to collect her Oscar in 1999, except the back of the skirt was wide open, revealing the buttocks and seamed stockings.

    The main conceit of the show was that the clothes were normal in front and nearly naked in the back — creative director Guram Gvasalia’s commentary on our surface-obsessed world, everything viewed on a flat screen, and his observation that many of his pop star friends wear very little on stage these days.

    Interesting concept; downbeat execution.



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