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    Undercover Spring 2026: There’s a Wrinkle

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    Jun Takahashi can’t get enough of the soft, squeezable works of the French plush artist Anne-Valérie Dupond. He’s been dazzled for years by her stuffed creations, which include internal organs, humans and animals with Frankenstein-style stitching and an equally sinister edge.

    The designer’s kooky lineup was a follow-on from the women’s fall 2025 outing, and a tribute to his fall 2004 — “but beautiful…part parasitic, part stuffed” collection.

    In 2004, Takahashi stepped into the toymaker’s shoes, imagining what singer Patti Smith would look like wearing clothes resembling Dupond’s stuffed animals. The artist’s jarring work dovetails with the designer’s obsession with beauty in imperfection.

    In this latest collection, he doubled down on the wrinkles, with a distorted black tuxedo jacket and leather cowboy boots that looked as if they’d shrunk in the dryer. The puckered and twisted cowboy boots in faded red or brown looked surreal, as if the leather had melted.

    Dark trousers had curving, exposed seams that were covered in a printed flowery fabric, while crinkled fabric peeked from under the edges of a purple crewneck sweater, as if the lining were slipping out.

    There were more trompe l’oeil pieces to come in the form of jackets with a jumble of mismatched buttons and feathery edges, and a onesie-type outfit made from a long black skirt, striped Breton top and blue cardigan, all of which were attached. Ideal for anyone in a morning hurry.

    There was a showstopper on display, too: a multicolored dress covered with anatomically correct internal organs made with fabric, stuffing and stitches made by the artist. It was fascinating to observe — is that where the liver is? Reassuringly, the bright red heart was in the center of the dress, rather than on the sleeve.



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