First, sincere apologies to Rhuigi Villaseñor: the best word for how long it’s taken to get this Rhude review written is rude. However, at least the theme of this collection, entitled Renaissance Man, reflects the circumstances that led to that delay. As Villaseñor put it when we met way-back-when in July: “It’s kind of like where I feel I am right now. I’m doing a million things at once.”
Villaseñor is currently residing in Como, playing keepy-uppy between his roles as chief brand officer of the town’s powerfully resurgent soccer club, Como 1907, and the label he founded ten years ago. His executive elevation was reflected in the proto-tycoon tailored pieces: brown and black chalk stripe, made-in-Italy suiting with expressive collars and drapey pants. There was a fair dose of l’uomo di lago Euro-chic in his camp-collared shirts, shorts, and velvet blazer combos. “I’m trying to build a broader vocabulary,” he said.
Sport remains a key part of that vocabulary. Unsurprisingly, there were some handsomely conceived leisure/training wear sets that collided the branding of Rhude with that of Como 1907. One look featured a satin-finish white jersey with mesh panels, printed with the number seven and the Rhude logo in tonal white, which referenced American football uniforms. Motorsport and the designer’s nicotine-fumed codes showed up less overtly than before, but Villaseñor emphasized: “We still want to keep the motorsport, and we’re still keeping that Americana.”
Military-workwear pieces are finely played at Rhude. Here they included a washed olive drill over shirt with house details on its flap pockets, paired with black cargo trousers, and a particularly excellent leopard print denim work-short. Leopard-print slipper shoes appeared under multiple looks, breaking up the largely neutral palette. Sunglasses included sporty wraparounds and gold-framed aviators. “I am the moodboard,” said Villaseñor. “The lifestyle is driven by me.”