As the nights close in and the leaves begin to crunch underfoot, how comforting to see a collection inspired by 1950s bathing beauties, seaside romps and scuba style.

“I grew up in Brittany, by the sea, and wanted to have that feel, that beach-y, improvised feel of dressing,” said Julien Dossena, who wanted the clothes to feel laid-back and comfortable – but still glamorous.

That translated into a lineup of halter tops inspired by structured, darted 1950s bikinis. They were styled with matching shrugs, layered under flowery blouses with peek-a-boo holes, and teamed with long, flowy skirts.

Dresses and skirts were embroidered with what looked like sparkling sea creatures, or the rubber flowers on bathing caps.

The flowers sprouted on the hems and sleeves of skater dresses with cutout fronts, while sea urchin shapes, picked out in red and silver beads and sparkles, popped on a peach satin skirt with an outsized belt at the waist.

There was more sparkle to come in the shape of short skirts made from thick, crinkled layers of sliver and gold metal. All that shine nodded to the DNA of the house, a pioneer of 1960s Space Age fashion.

Dossena paired a gold metallic miniskirt with a striped polo for a sporty mermaid vibe, layered silver ruffles under a bright yellow minidress with rippling hemline, and added metallic fringe to a tutu style and to the underskirts of a flippy blue dress with ragged-edged sleeves.

The designer said he loved the idea of ripping apart everyday clothing and piecing it back together to suit a day at the beach. That’s why that blue minidress had raggedy sleeves and why some of his longer skirts were open at the sides and held together with ties or knots.

Dossena paid extra-close attention to the shoes, which were adorned with metallic leather leaves, as if the model was “stepping over a carpet of palms” and they stuck to the heels and soles of the shoes. The leaves were supple, and molded around shoes ranging from high heels to flip-flops.

The simplest pieces here were the best. In his enthusiasm for a day at the beach, Dossena loaded up some of these looks with too many layers. Silver metallic fringe, gold leaves, sparkles and palm tree embroidery often competed for attention in this joyful collection that fused a futuristic attitude with nostalgia, and the promise of summery days to come.