Shoes that are worn frequently should undergo a “deep” clean using the below steps every couple months and—ideally—before they’re starting to look worse for wear. It’s also smart to clean your suede shoes as soon as you notice a stain, even if it’s a small one.

How to clean suede shoes

1. Let them dry

Are your suede shoes still wet from the unfortunate puddle you stepped in? Stop. Put the pair of shoes down and let that excess moisture air dry before you pick up any kind of soap or suede eraser. Be sure to avoid drying the shoes under direct sunlight or with heat, as that can cause further damage. Dry time is key, because if your suede shoes are still wet when you start the cleaning process, you’ll just wind up rubbing in more grime.

2. Brush off extra dirt

Once your suede shoes are moisture-free, Nelson recommends removing the laces, then inserting shoe trees or crumpled paper to help maintain the shoe’s shape as you work. You’ll also want to set-up a clean workspace for yourself. “It’s best to work on a protective surface like newspaper or an old towel to prevent any mess,” Nelson advises.

The next first step is to brush away any superficial dirt. We recommend using a suede brush if you have one on hand; otherwise, a fingernail brush, toothbrush, or anything with soft bristles will suffice. A nail file can also work, as long as you operate gently. While brushing, try to follow the grain of the suede with a gentle amount of pressure. Should you encounter unsightly scuff marks, apply elbow grease: brush back and forth with a bit more pressure to agitate the fibers and get those dirt particles moving.

3. Use rubber for dirt stains

If you have a suede rubber—also known as a suede eraser—lying at the bottom of your junk drawer, this is its time to shine. If not, you can use a pencil eraser, or any kind of rubber eraser, to rub out stubborn stains or marks that are still catching your eye. Apply additional pressure while attempting to rub out these stains, but don’t go crazy. Rub too hard, and you risk damaging the fabric.

4. Use water to combat water stains

While it is generally very important not to soak your suede shoes, sometimes you need to test the limits—especially when it comes to combating water stains and water spots. Grab an empty (and clean!) spray bottle to lightly spray water on the surface of the shoe. Just be careful when spritzing; water is the top reason suede gets ruined, so exercise restraint!