Anrealage’s Kunihiko Morinaga brought his collection to life, almost literally, using motion-sensors and kinetics embedded in his garments and accessories – special shout out to the fluffy cat-like bags, with tails that swished when stroked – to evoke a beating heart. His intention was to help visualize the notion of life, he explained through an interpreter backstage before the show.
The designer was moved by artists with disabilities working with Japanese company Heralbony, which inspired the theme, and he integrated works from 18 of them in the bold patterns on his designs, reproduced using digital printing by partner company Kyocera.
On the opening dresses, masses of ruffles undulated gently like mysterious sea creatures thanks to technology that detected the model’s heartbeat.
Tailored coats, skirts and dresses had wired flounces that bounced, highlighting contrasting lining and with a surrealist juxtaposition of baroque and preppy styles. The effect was all the more dramatic when the models paused, motionless, on the runway.
The overstated silhouettes were underpinned by bell-bottomed pants and shorts and balloon-sleeved blouses, with school ties, work shirts and doses of tartan mixed in for good measure. The exaggerated proportions of the silhouettes proved to highlight the bright art motifs, which ranged from pointillism to street art and everything in between.
Bags and shoes reprised the screen technology Morinaga integrated into his last collection, featuring animations including a heart emoji or blinking eyes. For a second season, Morinaga worked with Daft Punk’s Thomas Bangalter for the original soundtrack, which featured the rhythm of a heartbeat against the abstract noises of the artists at work. It was intended to outline what it means to be human in an age increasingly dominated by technology.