MILAN – Dario Vitale’s debut show is sparking debate online. With commentators split between full-on praise, moderate interest for his unorthodox take on the brand’s sex-appeal and those who are already nostalgic about its old tropes, it is perhaps the most divisive Milan debut so far.

The secretive presentation format, dubbed by the house over the summer as an intimate affair, was in fact a proper runway show with few guests welcomed Friday night at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana museum, whose vast collection of art includes a Medusa bust.

Previously Miu Miu’s ready-to-wear design director, Vitale said he challenged himself to embrace vivid colors, bold patterns — and all that the vast legacy of the Versace house has to offer — but done his way, rooted more in reality than fantasy.

WWD pooled the first reactions from fashion historians, vintage connoisseurs and talent scouts. Here’s what they had to say. 

Pamela Golbin, curator, author and fashion historian

Versace is always about the swagger —heels high, dresses tight, hair coiffed, the total look with an unmistakable boldness that commands attention and celebrates expansive audacity. After 15 years with the Prada group designing Miu Miu, Dario Vitale’s début collection at Versace offers a new paradigm for the Milanese house. More intimate, personal and intentionally restrained, Dario’s vision for both men and women evokes the ease and more quiet confidence of the everyday without forgetting the Versace “sexy”. With his wardrobe inspired by the visual vocabulary of 1980’s Versace, Vitale reveals the body in unexpected and unconventional ways. Dario offers a glimpse of how he dressed in his younger years — and how that style made him feel undeniably sexy. Layering, tailoring and low side cuts in linens and leather shape his sensual silhouettes. In the show notes for the collection, Dario Vitale offers this invitation to the reader, “Hurry, come quickly. The curtains are drawn, the wine is chilled…Wear something reckless, as though mocking propriety. Stay or go as you wish.”  

Christos Garkinos, chief executive officer and  founder of Covet by Christos

The new creative director of Versace Dario Vitale recently said: “I see my job as one of provoking a reaction — sometimes any kind of reaction; one that comes from something simple, not too contrived or complicated.” I think this collection will get a reaction indeed and I am of the side who loved it. It felt totally fresh and a jumpstart to a new direction for the brand. And yes, there were indeed codes represented like leather, new featured faces of the iconic Marilyn print, and great suiting. For me, Vitale showed a new way forward for the brand. I personally have been wanting to wear more Versace beyond the signature silks and now I have the opportunity.

Cameron Silver, founder of Decades Inc.

The collection was fresh while being deeply rooted in the vintage icons of Gianni Versace. Because the brand has not had a particularly distinctive point of view for several seasons, Dario Vitale successfully mixed it up with very retro references, a youthful exuberance, and separated his point of view from his predecessor, Donatella.  It was very casual, Miami-chic, and the glamor of the brand was diluted since evening looks didn’t appear on the runway. Vitale definitely paid homage to Gianni Versace’s heyday with the primary colored high-waisted jeans (straight out of Jeans Couture), belts with gilt hardware, passive scarf print references, and exaggerated shoulders. The codes of Versace are very strong and Vitale manipulated the familiar in a playful way.  His Versace is quirky and sexy.  This “nerd” element is distinctive and breaks way from the Gianni and Donatella eras.

Alexandra Van Houtte, founder and chief executive officer of Tagwalk

It’s a very ’80s wardrobe focus, it remains sexy which is the renowned Versace stamp but what’s interesting is that 48 percent of the whole collection has jackets whereas beforehand, dresses were the main pieces of the collection – 29 percent then versus 18 percent now. Overall, the collection contains 25 percent stripes, 21 percent of high waist [looks] and 32 percent leather.