Who can catch up with Glenn Martens right now? Fresh from his raving couture debut at Maison Margiela and gearing up for the ready-to-wear one in 10 days, the Belgian designer squeezed in between another inventive display for Diesel, giving an additional demonstration of his talent in channeling the brand’s nature and engaging with people.
The presentation he set up at the Diesel headquarters in Milan — where an array of transparent, egg-shaped vessels encased models wearing the brand’s spring 2026 looks — was a mere press-reserved side note to what happened later in the day, when Martens brought the collection to the masses.
They had to earn the access. Martens staged an egg hunt across the city, scattering the same displays and looks in disparate places, ranging from gardens to local theaters, landmark piazzas to bingo venues. Almost 5,000 people signed up online to take part in the three-and-half-hour-long game, committed to finding all 34 eggs as fast as they could.
“It’s not like your classic catwalk in the city,” Martens told WWD during a preview. “We found so many spots downtown which kind of reflect what Diesel stands for, so of course the shopping streets but also the clubs, the bars, the sex shops, the mechanic shops. It’s part of the idea that every single person in the world can be Diesel….We talk to everybody without any kind of restriction of money, background, sexuality or gender. Our collection is quite unique in that way. I don’t think there’s any brand [that] is talking to so many different [people] at the same time.”
In line with the democratic, disruptive and playful ethos of the brand, the concept brought a new and even more engaging element of participation compared to the crowded open-to-the-public shows Martens previously orchestrated.
Even better, it brought prizes.
These included the chance to win a total denim look of their own choice selected at the brand’s store or Diesel accessories, while the top five fastest contestants to have completed the hunt get to pick looks from the spring 2026 show, which will be adjusted custom-like in fits and be delivered to them in time for Christmas.
Winners have plenty of compelling options to pick from, as Martens’ latest effort marked another evolutionary step toward a more elevated Diesel without compromising his signature experimentation.
He merged different fibers to develop a so-called satin denim fabric to craft dresses, apron tops, pencil skirts and outerwear with a shiny look but lasered to create distressed pieces. They stood out not only for their effect but also for their vibrant color combinations — such as purple, lime and light blue — as well as proportions, relying on longer hems, as well as panels and details like deconstructed biker straps wrapping around the body.
There also were double-layered items bonding the likes of jersey with taffeta and technical fabrics. Many pieces resulted in a cracked texture, as they hatched to reveal the under layer.
There was an entire theme riffing on animal patterns with motifs of imaginary creatures, as seen in minidresses and skirts or mixed with ribbed knits, floral prints and tailoring in a series of cutout frocks and jumpsuits, which made for the most fun looks in the lineup but probably not the immediate go-to choice of the egg hunt’s winners.
Martens’ advice to them? “If they’re clever, they’d get the leather looks. They’re the most expensive,” he said with a laugh.