Henry Zankov has gone from engaging his close circle of artist friends to more high-profile collaborations lately, designing homeware with pop star Troye Sivan and an exclusive capsule for Diane von Furstenberg.
People seem drawn to the vivid universe he’s creating and it’s easy to imagine all of the potential markets it could seep into beyond his knitwear roots, which Zankov proved once and for all Monday at his first seated runway show.
“It’s really exciting,” he said, beaming backstage after a standing ovation from the audience. Rattling off new categories, Zankov continued: “We’ve added evening in silk and tailoring… chiffon that’s been washed. There’s raw denim tailoring and coated utility cottons.”
Free-spirits like Annie Ernaux, PJ Harvey and Zadie Smith were listed as muses in the collection notes, but colors, layers and embellishments had a louche 1970s attitude, not unlike Ms. von Furstenberg herself in the heady days of Studio 54.
“Whether it’s musicians or artists or anyone who’s creative, it’s really about this woman who doesn’t subscribe to a regular way of living,” elaborated Zankov. She’ll go bare-breasted underneath a lavender crinkle chiffon sweater one day and use a bandana as a makeshift bra tied over a rugby polo the next. There are no rules that inhibit her approach to dressing because “she moves through life with confidence.”
Forward movement was the single dimension lacking in his standing presentations before and Zankov was clearly having fun with it here in the swishy car wash hems on perforated intarsia pants and bias gowns with thick stripes of violet, yellow, orange and blue that flapped like beach flags behind models as they strode past.
Fishnet tanks, iridescent sequins, sarongs and one fabulous anorak hoodie paired with shredded cotton board shorts notched up the nautical cool, as did Murano glass beaded belts and necklaces by Presley Oldham strung with shells.
These were actually pill cases, Oldham pointed out, fitting given the whole display felt like a dose of medicine for weary mid-fashion week eyes.
Again, the idea to use them came from the magpie ways of the Zankov woman. As Oldham explained: “She’s collecting all of these objects throughout her life, and whether they become jewelry or not, she needs a place to put them.”
Whatever she’s stashing, we’ll gladly take another hit.