Doing more with less is kind of the Kate Barton MO.

Her proprietary draping techniques make the most of sculptural drama with the least waste possible. She’s recently been translating that idea to her business, providing customers more look for less money as she moves into casual daywear, which retailers like Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s picked up for fall.

For spring, Barton shifted that expansion into high gear by melding retro sportif with her sci-fi aesthetic, though you won’t catch her on the field or in the stands at a game. “It’s more about the style lines,” the designer explained. Asked if there was any sport in particular she referenced, Barton vaguely answered, “racer.”

There was indeed a go-faster attitude in the sheer motocross bombers and racerback necklines, which she slowed down with soothing colors like blush, buttercup yellow and sky blue. Backstage, Barton gave a cool tomboy look to her feminine outfit, throwing a jersey over it and on the runway ones for cycling and soccer did just that for ballooning princess skirts. Serving tennis, her first knits came in the form of twinning skirt sets. Engineered with contrasting pastel trims, they somehow made the whole frat-boy trend of piling on polos convincing in a single garment.

Faux-chrome polka dots continued the illusions on tissue-hem jersey, mimicking the three-dimensional studs on a simple black crepe minidress. In this case, real was better, but trompe-l’oeil bustiers printed on menswear shirting effectively showed the trickle-down of Barton’s couture experiments and tied in nicely with her liquid silk finale gowns.

Barton said: “I started out in the beginning with this very clear idea of the brand, and now it’s really about playing with our core DNA and we’re doing it in a way that’s fresh and very accessible.” Another way she’s doing it? Her acrylic goldfish handbag, which went viral on Heidi Klum in 2023, now comes as an easy-to-carry phone case in collaboration with Bandolier.