Jamie Salter, chairman, Authentic Brands Group

The Canadian billionaire’s career in fashion dates to the 1980s but over the last 15 years he’s built Authentic into a licensing powerhouse across fashion, sports and entertainment, encompassing more than 50 brands that operate in 150 countries, have more than 29,000 freestanding stores and in-store shops, and generate some $32 billion in annual retail sales. A consummate dealmaker, whenever there’s a potential fashion deal, Salter is bound to be in the mix.

Alessandro Sartori, artistic director, Zegna

Zegna’s artistic director since 2016, Sartori has been instrumental in shaping a new leisurely and experimental take on tailoring since the pandemic, leading the major stylistic shift and commercial success of the brand in recent years. A master of color and passionate about fabrics, he’s pushed the brand even more into luxury with collections that straddle comfort and style, rooted in its commitment to high quality and craftsmanship.

Josh Schulman, CEO, Burberry

One year in at Burberry, Schulman has put the brand back on track, going farther — and faster — with his Burberry Forward plan, which was unveiled in November. His aim has been to reconnect with Burberry’s core customers and focus again on outerwear and scarves. A well-rounded leader known for both building brands and restoring others to health, Schulman faces the challenge of turning around a stand-alone British-based luxury brand against the behemoths in Milan and Paris and while the market softens. But he’s made a strong start.

Yehuda Shmidman, cofounder, chairman and CEO, WHP Global

Shmidman, who’s taken WHP from zero to more than $7 billion in retail sales in just six years with more than a little licensing savvy, is in the middle of everything as one of fashion’s brand licensing leaders. In the past year alone, WHP bought Vera Wang, made a pitch to acquire Guess Inc. and is said to be one of the players keen to own Marc Jacobs, potentially moving the brand management approach into new designer territory. 

David Simon, chairman, president and CEO, Simon Property Group

Simon has led the real estate investment trust’s repositioning of its many shopping malls into mixed-use properties where people live, dine, shop and get entertained. He’s considered one of America’s most successful CEOs given his long track record of profits, enormous growth, and for having a clear vision. He recently revealed serious health issues, but is positioning his company for succession, tapping his son Eli as chief operating officer.

Raf Simons, Prada’s co-creative director

Prized for his exacting silhouettes and instinct for the zeitgeist, the Belgian designer launched his namesake street-inspired menswear brand in 1995, causing a sensation until shuttering it in 2022. He then brought a gust of modernity to several marquee fashion houses, becoming creative director at Jil Sander, succeeding John Galliano at Dior and joining Calvin Klein as chief creative officer, a tenure that never clicked. Since 2020 he has shared the role of co-creative director at Prada alongside Miuccia Prada, and their collections have generally been a Milan highlight.

Paul Smith, designer, founder and chairman of Paul Smith

Smith is marking 55 years in business this year, no mean feat given a humble start with a single, tiny shop in Nottingham, England. His multimillion-pound fashion, design and lifestyle brand remains independent and, aged 79, he’s still working with the joy — and industry — of his early years in business. That includes doing the Saturday shift on the shop floor of his Albemarle Street store in London, collecting art, traveling the world and taking photographs, which he uses as inspiration for collections.

Todd Snyder, designer

A background in retail and business, marketing savvy, a supportive deep-pocketed parent in American Eagle Outfitters and a design aesthetic that fills the white space in the American men’s market have helped Snyder carve out a niche in the designer fashion world. His brand, launched in 2011, now generates around $150 million in sales and has 23 stores in the U.S. Snyder is now eager to go global, having shown at Pitti Uomo and dreaming of a store in London. America’s next big men’s brand?

Tony Spring, chairman and CEO of Macy’s Inc.

The architect of Macy’s “Bold New Chapter” three-year turnaround strategy introduced in February 2024, Spring now has to prove it will work even as activist investors and Wall Street continue to push for more radical reinvention at America’s largest department store group. His plan involves closing 150 Macy’s stores, accelerating growth in the luxury sector, and rolling out Bloomie’s and Bluemercury stores.

Charlotte Tilbury, founder, Charlotte Tilbury

Darlings! Has ever a makeup artist tapped into the zeitgeist like Tilbury, combining Hollywood glamour with accessible, achievable makeup looks? And while the spate of dupes over the last couple of years is the ultimate bore (not to mention a drag on sales), Tilbury’s star is still shining bright, with parent company Puig reporting a 10 percent increase in makeup sales for the second quarter of this year.

Sidney Toledano, adviser to the LVMH chairman and CEO

Toledano, a pillar of the luxury industry armed with formidable foresight, has spent decades shaping the global prominence of LVMH’s fashion empire, notably through his transformative leadership at Dior and later as CEO of LVMH Fashion Group. He famously expanded the Dior business tenfold, with the company going from a licensing-driven operation to a modern luxury house. An engineer by training, Toledano’s strong financial and analytical skills are married to a passion for the fashion industry. Before exiting Dior, Toledano appointed Maria Grazia Chiuri as its seventh couturier — a decision based largely on intuition and soft criteria, and one that further propelled the brand into the stratosphere.

Anthony Vaccarello, creative director, Saint Laurent

The Belgian designer put his signature brand on hold when he joined Saint Laurent in 2016 and he’s never looked back, finding endless inspiration in the house that Yves built, settling into a seductive groove and plying a smoky, aloof strain of chic. He sees the big cultural picture, staging fashion shows at the foot of the Eiffel Tower or in the Bourse de Commerce contemporary art museum, and he has also linked the brand to publishing, music, photography and even feature films via Saint Laurent Productions. But the Kering-owned brand’s momentum has slowed recently, and Vaccarello has to get it back on track.

Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh, photographers

The photography duo is celebrated for their highly conceptual, surreal image style that blends art, fashion and photography, often merging hyperrealism with digital manipulation. Their editorial and campaign work with brands like Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Gucci, Cartier and Tom Ford Beauty have helped set a new standard for fashion photography.

Silvia Venturini Fendi, Fendi’s artistic director of accessories and menswear

Venturini Fendi has been artistic director of accessories and menswear of the brand her grandfather founded since 1992, introducing accessories such as the iconic Baguette bag in 1997 and the Peekaboo bag in 2008. The designer has supported Design Miami since the first edition 17 years ago and her passion for interior design is reflected in her contributions to the Fendi Casa line. She has overseen the brand’s women’s collections for the last year as well following the departure of Kim Jones, helping Fendi celebrate its centenary while awaiting the arrival of a new women’s creative director.

Karla Welch, stylist

Known for her work with A-list talents including Tracee Ellis Ross, Olivia Wilde, Sarah Paulson and Justin Bieber, Welch also has used her platform to advocate for sustainability, social justice and inclusivity. In 2020, she cofounded The Period Co. with Sasha Markov to offer an accessible, sustainable menstruation product that addresses period poverty.

Grace Wales Bonner, designer, founder of Wales Bonner

Wales Bonner has pushed boundaries by consistently looking at luxury through a broader cultural perspective. She launched her brand after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2014 and has amassed accolades for her coed collections that blend Savile Row tailoring with Afro Atlantic influences and handcraft, such as beading. Her work is known for its cerebral quality and intimate connection to history, identity and art.

Emily Weiss, founder and executive chairwoman, Glossier

All eyes are on Weiss, the woman who revolutionized DTC beauty and put Millennial pink on the map with the launch of Glossier in 2014. But after raising $266 million and reaching a peak valuation of $2 billion, the future’s not looking as rosy. While Weiss has stepped away from day-to-day management of the brand, the search is on for a CEO with whom she can work closely to at long last put the shine back on a disruptor.

Pharrell Williams, creative

A multihyphenate with deep connections in the fashion industry, Williams was named creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton in 2023, cementing its position as a “cultural” brand. Having collaborated with Chanel and Adidas, the founder of streetwear brands Billionaire Boys Club and Icecream has spearheaded spectacular runway shows and crossovers into sports and entertainment, with campaigns featuring LeBron James and Rihanna.

Anna Wintour, global chief content officer, Condé Nast
With her bob and sunglasses, Wintour long ago moved beyond media to become a widely known cultural figure, especially through “The Devil Wears Prada” and now its sequel. She recently said she was stepping down as editor in chief of Vogue, a post she has held since 1988, but is far from giving up the reins since she remains chief content officer for Condé Nast and global editorial director of Vogue. But as she approaches 40 years at the top, industry observers widely question how much longer she will stay amid a turbulent media landscape.

Kate Young, stylist

Over the last two decades, Young has crafted powerful looks for Hollywood clients including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Margot Robbie, Julianne Moore, Scarlett Johnson, Selena Gomez, Michelle Williams and more. The renowned celebrity stylist’s influence on the fashion industry is marked by her ability to merge modern trends with timeless elegance on and off the red carpet.

Gildo Zegna, chairman and CEO Zegna

The family’s third-generation executive spearheaded Zegna’s transformation from a privately owned, heritage textile mill and tailoring brand founded in 1910 into a publicly traded luxury powerhouse reporting 2024 sales of 1.94 billion euros. CEO since 1997, Zegna has overseen the $500 million acquisition of Thom Browne in 2018 and of the Tom Ford Fashion license in 2022. Honoring his grandfather Ermenegildo’s legacy, he also has strengthened the group’s textile supply chain through targeted acquisitions.

Zendaya, actor

Not only an award-winning actress for Hollywood blockbusters, she is also a major fashion influencer, known for her versatile style working with Law Roach to redefine red carpet fashion. She is a brand ambassador for Bulgari, Valentino and Louis Vuitton and previously worked on a collection with Tommy Hilfiger. Her influence stretches into activewear, too — she recently launched a shoe with On Holding and is about to add an apparel line, too.