Cortisol has a bad rep, but without it, we couldn’t live—the stress hormone is a necessary mechanism of survival. Of course, the problem occurs when cortisol is triggered in excess.
The consequences of chronic, unbalanced cortisol? Weight gain, insomnia, mood swings, digestive problems… the list goes on and on. When it comes to skin, excessive cortisol can be just as damaging, resulting in a loss of collagen and elastin that leads to premature aging, wrinkles, and sagging. Of course, there’s also a social media phenomena called “cortisol face” which, though not an official medical condition, is thought to be a puffy, swollen face induced by stress. However, most doctors say that true “cortisol face” is rare and usually related to a condition called Cushing’s syndrome.
Still, “the skin and scalp are living, biologically active and emotionally reactive organs” and thus, an excess of cortisol can impact the skin, as explains beauty and wellness expert Claudia Di Paolo. “Cutaneous cortisol is the manifestation of stress on the skin,” she says. “It is, in essence, an accelerator of visible aging and silent inflammation that we do not always perceive, but that impacts the skin’s vitality.”
Symptoms of high cortisol
When our natural stress defense mechanism—cortisol—gets out of control, many of the symptoms are subtle at first. Before chronic, stress-induced inflammation is seen on the skin in the form of visible aging, the signs often include—
- Loss of hydration; dryness
- Increased skin sensitivity
- Dull skin tone
- Slower ability to regenerate
Microhabits to reduce cortisol
It is important to remember that the skin does not produce cortisol on its own, but that excess cortisol affects the skin and face as a response to stress. Luckily, small daily habits can help return the body (and thus, the skin) to a state of balance. Below, a look at these important micro-habits.
The rule of 10
When taking time for a lengthy self-care ritual seems like an unattainable ideal, remember that finding calm need not require a huge time commitment. Most experts agree that finding small moments for self-care— even just 10 minutes—can be extremely effective. “It’s the key to body, mind, and skin balance,” Di Paolo says.
Anti-inflammatory foods
Eating an anti-inflammatory diet will not regulate cortisol, but it will help to modulate some of the silent inflammation that results from stress and unbalances the skin. Experts recommend foods rich in antioxidants (such as green tea); omega-3 fatty acids (oily fish, nuts, and seeds), and avoiding refined sugars to promote more balanced skin.
Relaxation practices
If you find meditating difficult, experts suggest conscious breathing as a way to reduce stress—and, therefore, cortisol—instead. The easiest way to get started: simply breathe deeply, inhaling air through the nose and releasing it through the mouth. Notice how the inhale and exhale affects the movement of the ribs and stomach. Repeat.
Sleep
As Tyra Banks used to say, sleep is the best makeup. Di Paolo agrees: “Sleeping well is the most natural and restorative treatment to balance hormone levels and restore the skin.”
Neuroactive cosmetics
Most products only act at the dermal level, but neuroactive cosmetics contain ingredients—think: saffron extract and cannabinoids—that are capable of influencing the nervous system. “The skin is a neuroreceptive organ, with thousands of nerve endings that influence our emotional state,” Di Paolo points out. “Neuroactive cosmetics activate the parasympathetic nervous system, promoting emotional relaxation and helping to reduce anxiety and stress.” While the field is still relatively new and more studies are needed, the skin-brain link is very real, which means these sci-fi products might be worth a try.
Have a beauty or wellness trend you’re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue’s senior beauty & wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.