The skinny suit is out and a looser fit is making its return. That was the message on the menswear runways for fall ‘25, but will guys embrace the new silhouette? Maybe yes, maybe no, depending on where the stores are located and the customer demographics. Here, retailers in the U.S. and overseas weigh in on the viability of the new relaxed tailoring trend.

Dan Farrington, general merchandise manager, men’s, Mitchells Stores:

“We are evolving slowly with fits. Our core customer is not high fashion so the industry is ahead of them on pace.  We will have options in looser fits across categories and several vendors which will be more than last fall; however, it’s still a small percentage. I think it’s a good thing as skinny went too far in some cases. When we get back late ‘80s/early ‘90s models we will know we’ve gone too far again.”

Alice Feillard, director of men’s buying, Galeries Lafayette:

“Soft tailoring is a key long-term trend, setting itself durably in men’s wardrobes. Jackets are becoming more fluid and unlined, while pleated trousers are looser. The overall men’s silhouette is more refined yet softer, from cocoon coats to soft leather slippers and loafers. This trend is quite commercial, so our customers are already investing in these pieces that are easy to match. This softness will continue into the next summer collections.”

Bruce Pask, senior director, men’s fashion, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus:

“We have been seeing looser, more voluminous menswear proportions on the runway and in collections for quite a few seasons now, both in tailoring as well as in sportswear silhouettes — from boxier, more drop-shouldered jackets to fuller trousers and denim as well as shorts. The wider-legged, more fluid ‘fashion’ pant was the first wardrobe piece seen on the runway to trigger this move toward volume in the menswear wardrobe, and will likely be the most easily embraced. We have already seen this gaining traction with early adopters, and I expect this to continue to expand in scope.  

“Menswear development has historically moved in a rather incremental way; a gradual process from stages of customer awareness and observation to adaptation. Quite literally, it takes time for the eye to adjust and acclimate to these silhouette changes. I remember more than 20 years ago when Thom Browne’s shrunken suits first hit the scene and were seen by many as extreme. Cut to the ubiquitous trim, tight, cropped pants that have dominated the men’s market for years now. I expect a much shorter timeline for the embrace of fuller, fluid proportions given the easy access to the information and influence of social media. We have already seen the embrace of these proportions in street-style images and red carpet looks from all over the world. The market and customer feel ready for this — there is a desire for ease and fluidity.

“In the casual tailored world, we saw a real development in ‘set dressing:’ versatile, softly tailored jackets, short zip jackets and blousons paired with trousers in matching fabrics for a new, relaxed take on the traditional suit. This seems like a nice, wearable extension of the shirt jacket that has been widely embraced.”

Joo Woo, senior vice president, brand partnerships and buying, men’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus:

“We are seeing signals of customer interest in more relaxed, loose-fitting suiting silhouettes. It’s a direction that’s gaining momentum in the market. We believe in the evolution of this silhouette and are beginning to introduce it thoughtfully, and we expect to see continued growth as customers grow more comfortable with the aesthetic.”

Young-Su Kim, vice president, divisional merchandise manager, men’s, Bergdorf Goodman:

“We have seen early success with looser suiting silhouettes in menswear over the past two seasons, and we have increased our investment for fall. After reviewing the spring 2026 collections this past June, it’s clear that the shift toward this trend is showing no signs of slowing down.

“In recent seasons, we’ve observed a broader range of relaxed tailoring options from our brand partners, driven by a growing interest in suits and suit separates among our customers. This trend is not just about fit and proportion; it’s also about fabric and drape. The movement toward softer, more effortless fabrics reflects a modern approach to dressing. Brioni is a great example of this approach. The soft, less constructed shoulder, a hallmark for some time now of Neapolitan tailoring from brands like Kiton and Cesare Attolini, is increasingly being adopted by labels such as The Row, Saint Laurent, Lemaire and Fear of God, further solidifying that relaxed tailoring is here to stay.”

Julie Ehrmann, general merchandise director, men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, shoes, Printemps:

 “At L’Endroit (Printemps’ men’s designer section), we’re already seeing the shift. Clients are gravitating towards cleaner, more elevated tailoring — whether in full suits or styled down with denim — while still craving that distinctive twist. From Ann Demeulemeester’s avant-garde cuts and Sonia Carrasco’s deconstructed tailoring to Casablanca’s bold ’80s silhouettes and Willy Chavarria’s exaggerated proportions, tailoring remains in our DNA. For fall/winter ‘25, the mood is less streetwear, more fashion-forward: exceptional fabrics, refined construction, and statement details.

“The momentum is here, driven by fresh arrivals this season such as Alainpaul, 2025 LVMH Prize semi-finalist; Calvin Klein défilé; Moschino under Adrian Appiolaza, and Omar Afridi’s ultra-modern vision. Looser silhouettes aren’t just coming — they’re landing.”

Dan Leppo, senior vice president and general merchandise manager, men’s, Macy’s:

“We’ve noticed the trend toward wider pant legs, especially those that are more athletic in the thigh and straight from the knee. We have also introduced more pleated styles into our assortment. It’s a moderate shift from flat-front tapered legs. Jackets remain largely unchanged, except for sportswear where oversized, ’80s-inspired silhouettes from Armani or Donna Karan, or Lemaire are gaining traction.

“We are happy with the current mix in our assortment. Our team continues to refine fits that resonate most with customers who are looking for a more progressive silhouette, and we are always closely monitoring market trends as they develop. We have an incredible trend and forecasting team that we work closely with to stay up to date on evolving trends and fashion. We believe the trend will continue to gain momentum. We expect to see broader appeal particularly in pants — where reimagined pleats and fabrics with great drape that create fluid lines can give customers a fresh, compelling reason to buy.”

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew:

“We’ve seen a gradual move toward looser, more relaxed silhouettes in men’s fashion, especially in denim. Brands like Frame and Citizens of Humanity are leading the way with relaxed and straight-leg fits. In tailored sportswear, the overall aesthetic remains polished, but there’s a noticeable shift toward fluidity in trousers and jackets. Structure is giving way to ease, and it’s resonating. We believe this trend will continue, especially if it’s styled within a clean and intention manner.”

John Tighe, chief executive officer, Tailored Brands:

“We’re testing looser suits and the results depend on the banner. At K&G, we sell looser silhouettes and they’re performing well. But we’re testing looser suits and pleats at Jos. A. Bank and Men’s Wearhouse and they haven’t shown much success. At K&G, we have more of a fashion customer, but it takes a few years for a trend to become mainstream. Look at skinny jeans and how long those took to begin selling. But we think it’s coming and we’ll continue to test.”

Isla Lynch, buying director, Ssense:

“We’ve been selling a wider leg shape for several seasons now through brands like Lemaire, Auralee and The Row. For us, it’s a silhouette that styles effortlessly with a T-shirt, leather jacket and belt for a casual yet polished look. Looking ahead to spring/summer ‘26, and despite the ‘hygiene’ debates, it also pairs with ease with a simple flip-flop.”