MOVIE NIGHT: This season’s fashion campaigns are feeling cinematic, perhaps none more so than Pieter Mulier’s latest effort for Alaïa, with a video version that references a sweep of his favorite movies: Jane Campion’s “The Piano,” “Breaking the Waves” by Lars von Trier, William Wyler’s “Wuthering Heights,” and “Barry Lyndon” by Stanley Kubrick.
According to the house, its summer-fall campaign was “conceived intentionally as a film, with this idea of movement, fundamental to Alaïa.”
Photographer Tyrone Lebon, a frequent collaborator of Mulier’s, took care of the stills, while Frank Lebon directed the accompanying videos, billed as a first for the maison.
Alaïa said it’s also a first that the campaign was shot entirely outdoors, on the northern coast of France between Cap Blanc-Nez and Cap Gris-Nez.
An image from Alaïa’s summer-fall campaign.
Tyrone Lebon/Courtesy of Alaïa
Mulier cast models Loli Bahia and Nastassia Legrand as the faces of the campaign, and they “appear simultaneously as characters in a film or a novel, and as the quintessence of the Alaïa woman: Pure, powerful, raw, free, and at times, even wild,” according to the house.
Donuts of fabrics, some framing faces, others ringing shoulders or hips, were a key feature of the designer’s summer-fall collection. In the campaign, the hoods are reminiscent of Flemish portraits – and sometimes the dorade vents fond on the deck of boats. Mulier also had in mind literary characters by Jane Austen, Virginia Woolf, George Eliot, Emily Dickinson, or the Brontë sisters.
But everything is shot in black and white, which obscures “any fixed notion of time and space,” according to Alaïa.
Mulier achieved a similar sleight of hand with his hit runway show last March for the summer-fall collection.
“You could feel North Africa and Elizabethan royals embedded in Mulier’s designs, but with the references blurred like his soundtrack, which had electronic throb sliding up against yearning vocals in Arabic,” WWD opined at the time.
The campaign breaks Wednesday on Alaïa’s digital channels.
An image from Alaïa’s summer-fall campaign.
Tyrone Lebon/Courtesy of Alaïa