While we can all appreciate the meditative nature of a maximalist 10-step Korean skin-care routine, there’s also something to be said for minimalism and efficiency. If you’re short on time and want a quick, easy regimen that multitasks, the best alpha hydroxy acid products are your ticket to smoother, brighter skin with minimal effort. “Alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are water-soluble acids derived from natural sources—fruits, milk, and sugar cane—that loosen the ‘glue’ holding dead skin cells to the surface,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Julie Russak.
Vogue’s Favorite Alpha Hydroxy Acid Products
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In short, AHAs work by exfoliating, and that process makes skin look instantly more refreshed. Though a scrub can also remove dead cells, chemically exfoliating with alpha hydroxy acid products can go beyond the surface to provide many more benefits. “AHAs brighten dull skin, smooth rough texture, fade dark spots, and soften fine lines,” explains Lisa Chevalier, PA-C and founder of SoVous Medical Spa and Laser Center. Not only can exfoliating with AHAs help improve skin clarity, some of these acids penetrate so deeply that they can stimulate collagen production in the dermis, improving the firmness and hydration of your skin over time, adds Chevalier.
Brighter, smoother, clearer, firmer skin—the benefits of alpha-hydroxy acids for skin almost sound comparable to those of retinol and retinoids. But unlike retinoids, “most skin types can tolerate AHAs with appropriate strength and cadence,” says Dr. Russak, and over-the-counter strengths of AHAs are even considered safe to use during pregnancy (though you should always double check with your doctor). The only individuals who shouldn’t use AHAs are those who have active eczema or rosacea flares, open wounds, or are using isotretinoin (more commonly known as Accutane).
The key to navigating alpha-hydroxy acid products is understanding the different types of acids and their properties—trust us when we say that once you find the right AHA for your skin, you’ll wonder how your routine existed without it. From cult-favorite chemical peels to gentle daily cleansers, discover our favorites below.
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Best Exfoliating Pads: Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Pads
- Why We Love It: We’ve been using these two-step exfoliating pads for over a decade and have no plans to stop anytime soon—they’re gentle enough to be used daily and only take two minutes to apply, making them an easy fit into the busiest of routines. Dr. Russak appreciates their practicality as well as their cumulative results: “They’re designed for consistent resurfacing that maintains clarity and glow over time,” she says. The secret sauce is a cocktail of four alpha hydroxy acids and one beta hydroxy acid (hence the name), which is infused into the first of the product’s two steps. The second is loaded with antioxidants, including vitamin C, ubiquinone, and resveratrol; and skin soothers like zinc, green tea, and yarrow extract for skin that’s immediately luminous and refreshed rather than red and sensitized.
- Key Ingredients: Glycolic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, green tea
- Type: Peel (leave-on)
- Size: 30 two-step treatments
Best K-Beauty: Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Serum
- Why We Love It: Though you’d think this serum would be aggressive on skin due to its laundry list of exfoliating AHAs and PHA, it’s actually an excellent choice for easily irritated complexions, especially acne-prone skin. Soothing ingredients like cica, green tea, and licorice root extracts, niacinamide, and madecassoside keep skin calm and comfortable, while glycerin and rosehip oil hydrate and nourish. With regular use, the serum quells redness and inflammation as it clarifies pores, promoting more balanced and healthier-looking skin.
- Key Ingredients: Centella asiatica extract, green tea extract, licorice root extract, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, lactobionic acid, niacinamide
- Type: Serum
- Size: 1.69 fl. oz.
Best Mask: Chanel N°1 de Chanel Revitalizing Mask
- Why We Love It: This luxe mask from Chanel combines multiple forms of rejuvenating red camellia with exfoliating AHAs like citric acid and tartaric acid to comprehensively address fine lines, enlarged pores, and other signs of aging without irritation. “I’d recommend this formula to those who want a softer introduction to exfoliation or who prefer mask formats for calmer, more controlled renewal,” says Dr. Russak. This gentle mask can be used once weekly—just massage it into your skin, wait five minutes, and wash off to see a fresh complexion that’s as velvety smooth as a camellia petal.
- Key Ingredients: Citric acid, tartaric acid, red camellia extract, red camellia oil
- Type: Mask
- Size: 1.7 oz.
Best Toner: Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant
- Why We Love It: While the BHA liquid exfoliant from Paula’s Choice gets much of the hype, this mandelic/lactic iteration deserves more attention—it’s great for those who find exfoliating irritating. “This ingredient duo shows how gentler AHAs can work together to balance tolerability with efficacy,” explains Dr. Russak. “It is gentle on the skin with a dual-AHA exfoliation, and it pairs two acids of different molecular sizes for a gentler resurfacing option, often suited to sensitive or pigment-prone skin.” Because it won’t disrupt the skin barrier—and it features hydrating and calming ingredients, like antioxidant-rich arginine and arrow extract—this formula is especially ideal for drier skin types.
- Key Ingredients: Mandelic acid, lactic acid, arginine, yarrow extract
- Type: Toner
- Size: 3 fl. oz.
Best with Vitamin C: SkinCeuticals C + AHA Exfoliating Antioxidant Treatment
- Why We Love It: It can be confusing to map out a skin-care routine, especially when you’re trying to integrate active ingredients. Dr. Russak recommends giving this one a try if you’re new to actives, as it combines a gentle dose of alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, citric, and lactic) with free radical-fighting vitamin C. “It’s a thoughtfully balanced blend that pairs exfoliation with antioxidants that also support skin regeneration, improving texture and radiance as part of a broader longevity strategy,” she says.
- Key Ingredients: Ascorbic acid, glycolic acid, glycerin, citric acid, lactic acid, sodium hyaluronate
- Type: Serum
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
Best Intensive Treatment: The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution
- Why We Love It: Due to its 30 percent blend of alpha hydroxy acids (plus two percent salicylic acid), this powerful peel is best for someone who can tolerate higher-strength formulas and can use them responsibly, says Dr. Russak. “Its potency requires the importance of professional guidance, patch testing, limited frequency of use, and sun protection in a responsible skin longevity plan,” she explains, noting that it’s especially ideal for addressing discoloration and hyperpigmentation. Be sure to rinse it off after 10 minutes to minimize sensitivity.
- Key Ingredients: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid
- Type: Peel (rinse-off)
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
Best Cleanser: Medik8 Surface Radiance Cleanse Gel
- Why We Love It: If you have sensitive skin or are prone to irritation, Dr. Russak points to this cleanser as an ideal first foray into exfoliating. “This everyday cleanser’s mild exfoliation supports daily renewal without overstripping,” she says. In addition to containing gentle AHAs mandelic and lactic acids, the formula features pore-clarifying salicylic acid as well as mangosteen peel extract. This fruit-sourced botanical boasts powerful anti-aging benefits—studies show it can prevent the breakdown of collagen and elastin, prevent hyperpigmentation, and defend skin from free radicals. Not to mention, the mangosteen peel adds a lovely vibrant scent to this cleanser as it works to brighten skin.
- Key Ingredients: Mandelic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, mangosteen peel extract
- Type: Cleanser
- Size: 5 fl. oz.
Best Peel: U Beauty Resurfacing Flash Peel
- Why We Love It: If you’ve got a special event coming up and don’t have time to visit your derm, try this glow-boosting exfoliating treatment from U Beauty. “It’s a more intensive at-home option that can be used periodically alongside routine care,” says Dr. Russak of the formula, which lists the powerhouse AHA glycolic acid as its second ingredient (meaning it’s the second most-concentrated ingredient in the bottle). It’s joined by fellow exfoliating AHAs citric and tartaric as well as BHA salicylic acid, plus skin hydrators and moisturizers like hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and fatty acids. After applying it to clean, dry skin, you can leave it on for as few as five minutes or as long as ten before rinsing to reveal your newfound radiance.
- Key Ingredients: Glycolic acid, citric acid, salicylic acid, tartaric acid, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol
- Type: Peel (rinse-off)
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
Best Night Serum: Kora Organics Noni Night AHA Resurfacing Serum
- Why We Love It: This organic overnight serum is powered by lactic acid, an AHA that has a large molecule size, making it gentler on the skin. Lactic acid also offers humectant-like properties, which are bolstered by fellow hydrating ingredients aloe and glycerin. For added clarity and skin protection, the blend contains pore-clarifying willow bark and free radical-fighting noni extracts, resulting in a formula that’s mild enough to use every evening, but strong enough to fade fine lines and dark spots in just four weeks.
- Key Ingredients: Lactic acid, willow bark extract, noni extract, aloe, glycerin
- Type: Serum
- Size: 1.01 fl. oz.
Best Mandelic Acid: Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Acid Clearing Serum
- Why We Love It: Due to its larger molecule size, mandelic acid can’t penetrate as deeply and is gentler on the skin, making it ideal for sensitive, acne-prone, and deeper complexions, says Chevalier. This formula from beloved esthetician Sofie Pavitt contains the active at an eight percent concentration along with hydrating hyaluronic acid and soothing panthenol to help renew skin without overstripping. “It’s great for foundational care in those who are targeting pigment irregularities or dullness and who are cautious about irritation,” adds Dr. Russak.
- Key Ingredients: Mandelic acid, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, glycerin
- Type: Serum
- Size: 1 fl. oz.
Best Lip Treatment: Dr. Idriss Barrier Baste Lip Peel
- Why We Love It: While lip scrubs are effective at removing flaky skin, large granules of sugar, salt, and crushed seeds can be too harsh on this delicate area. In this lip treatment from Dr. Idriss, gentle AHA mandelic acid is combined with hydrating and exfoliating gluconolactone to slough away dryness for a smoother pout. “This is best suited for patients with persistent lip roughness or uneven texture, provided it is paired with barrier care and daily SPF for protection,” notes Dr. Russak. After exfoliating your lips with this formula, you can use Dr. Idriss’s complementary Barrier Baste Lip Baste or one of our favorite SPF lip balms.
- Key Ingredients: Mandelic acid, gluconolactone, glycerin
- Type: Peel (leave-on)
- Size: 0.34 fl. oz.
Everything You Need to Know
What are the different types of alpha hydroxy acids?
When browsing skin-care shelves, you’ll mostly see three specific alpha hydroxy acids for skin: glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids. “The main difference between AHAs is their molecular size, which affects how deeply they can penetrate into the skin,” explains Chevalier. Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule size, making it able to penetrate most deeply of any AHA and therefore the most potent of the exfoliating acids, sometimes too much for sensitive skin. Lactic acid has a larger molecule size with humectant-like moisture-attracting properties, Dr. Russak explains. “It’s often favored for dry or sensitive skin and for barrier-conscious regimens,” she adds. Mandelic acid has an even larger molecule size, so it penetrates the slowest into the skin. “This makes it great for acne-prone, sensitive, or darker skin types,” explains Chevalier. Other AHAs, like citric, malic, and tartaric acids, are typically added alongside the big three mentioned here to provide additional exfoliating benefits as well as antioxidant properties.
What does alpha-hydroxy acid do to skin?
- Promotes Exfoliation (and Glowier Skin): AHAs weaken the bonds securing dead cells to the skin’s surface, speeding up cellular turnover, says Dr. Russak. That surface renewal leads to radiance: “Regular exfoliation reveals smoother, more luminous skin and helps maintain a healthy renewal cycle,” Dr. Russak explains. She notes that the depth and speed of exfoliation will depend on the molecule size and formulation; for example, a rinse-off formula with glycolic acid high on the ingredient list will likely be more powerful than a leave-on mandelic acid serum. But remember, faster and deeper exfoliation isn’t inherently better. “Overuse or high concentrations can disrupt the barrier and increase photosensitivity,” Dr. Russak warns. Ease into exfoliation with AHAs by using gentler products and acids, and work your way up.
- Boosts Collagen Production: Not all AHAs can boost collagen production, but glycolic acid can, as its small molecules can penetrate deep into the dermis, the layer of skin tissue where collagen-making fibroblast cells live. “Research shows glycolic acid doesn’t just exfoliate, it actually activates these fibroblasts, prompting them to make more collagen and glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid,” says Chevalier. The two work together to firm and hydrate the skin, ultimately improving skin’s overall structure.
- Smooths Fine Lines and Wrinkles: The mere act of exfoliating with AHAs can help improve the look of shallow crow’s feet and forehead lines, as “repeated cellular turnover can soften superficial lines over time,” says Dr. Russak. Plus, using an alpha-hydroxy acid for skin that has humectant properties, like lactic acid, will help plump up fine lines, while the uptick in collagen production triggered by glycolic acid can help fill out deep wrinkles from within. However, it’s important to have realistic expectations on what AHAs can do for wrinkles—it’s highly improbable that using a few at-home chemical peels will undo decades of unprotected sun exposure. “Deep wrinkle reduction typically requires a multi-modality approach, including retinoids, peptides, and in-office therapies within a longevity-oriented plan that emphasizes skin health and matrix integrity,” says Dr. Russak. (But AHAs are frequently part of that approach!)
- Fades Hyperpigmentation: AHAs primarily help improve the look of discoloration and dark spots by expediting exfoliation. “Speeding up the shedding of pigmented cells gradually lightens spots and evens out skin tone,” says Chevalier. But exfoliation doesn’t just fade pigment—it helps counteract part of the aging process that makes dark spots so stubborn as we get older. “As we age, some melanocytes and nearby keratinocytes become senescent, meaning they stop dividing, but stay metabolically active,” Chevalier explains. “Senescent cells release inflammatory signals that actually stimulate melanocytes to overproduce melanin in patches.” By stimulating cellular turnover with AHAs, you’re helping to clear away the “pro-pigment” environment. Bonus: Glycolic acid decreases the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme that causes melanin production, Chevalier adds. Just remember to always wear SPF when using AHAs—you don’t want to undo all your hard work fighting sun spots by exposing yourself to unprotected sun damage.
- Minimizes Enlarged Pores: While you can’t actually shrink your pores (their size is mostly determined by your genes), you can make them look smaller by keeping them clear. “Dead cells and oil tend to collect at the pore opening, stretching it and making it appear larger,” explains Chevalier. “By promoting turnover, AHAs reduce surface debris and subtle congestion around pores, making them appear smaller and the surrounding skin smoother,” says Dr. Russak.