The mid-July summer burn has officially landed, bringing with it a swell of sticky summer heat that feels impossible to manage and escape. Often, the effects of the hot climate, which can only be likened to a never-ending echo chamber of humidity, are first noticeable on the face and body before affecting the hair. However, hair is just as susceptible to sunburn and dryness; it may just take longer to appear.
Kadi Lee, celebrity stylist to Meghan Markle and Gwyneth Paltrow, and cofounder of the hair care brand Highbrow Hippie, spoke with WWD about how hair can suffer from several summer-specific conditions, including those caused by excessive sun, chlorine or saltwater exposure.
Sun, specifically, can wear down the protein, otherwise known as keratin, in your hair, causing breakage, dryness and dullness, according to Lee. Too much saltwater can also leave a dry finish on the tresses, all while chlorine works to strip the hair of its natural oils.
“Sun, salt water and chlorine exposure make your hair more vulnerable to damage, so I always recommend avoiding any products that weaken the hair cuticle and make it more porous,” Lee explained. “My shortlist for ingredients to avoid when heading to the pool, or if you’re out in the sun for a long period of time, are: essential oils, sulfates, alcohol-based products and non-water soluble silicones. These ingredients tend to damage the hair more quickly when exposed to sun and heavy heat.”
Summertime heat can suck all the moisture out of hair, leaving it vulnerable to dryness and damage, according to celebrity hairstylist Kadi Lee.
When it comes to protecting the hair from the heat, the best thing to do is avoid alcohol-based products at all costs, according to the stylist.
“Try to avoid any products that dry or zap the hair of moisture. Alcohol-based products being a big one. Alcohol pulls moisture out of the hair and makes the cuticle more porous, so when exposed to the sun and heat, the hair becomes more dry, more quickly,” she said.
Conversely, a deep conditioning mask can help nourish the hair, especially when introduced as a weekly addition to the hair care routine.
“This will help fortify, strengthen and protect the hair, ensuring long-term health,” Lee said of a mask. “I am also always on the hunt for lightweight products, formulated with nourishing and strengthening ingredients, and ideally, that also provide humidity and frizz control.”
On the topic of frizz, Lee recommended a handful of products to help tame the wild beast without weighing down the hair. The Virtue Frizz Block Smoothing Spray, the Virtue 6-in-1 Styler and the Christophe Robin Hydrating Leave-In Cream are admittedly her favorites. She said, “These products also serve as a heat protectant. Some often think of only needing to use heat protectant products when using hot styling tools, but the truth is that most heat damage is sustained by sun and environmental exposure.”
Similar to how different skin types are uniquely impacted, different hair colors are affected by the sun, heat, chlorine, and salt water in their own ways. “The biggest issue that comes up with sun exposure and hair color is, of course, fading. However, depending on the color, some have a higher risk of long-term damage than others,” Lee explained. Because of this, it’s necessary to keep a wide-brimmed hat in your summer arsenal no matter the color.
To keep the hair hydrated and shiny, Lee reccomends using a deep conditioning mask at least once a week in the summer.
“Because there is overall more processing involved with blond hair, it’s especially prone to dryness and breakage,” Lee continued. “One thing I see a lot in my brunette clients who have been out in the sun is a sun-bleaching effect. The hair can often turn brassy or too warm and overall loses its intended sun-kissed effect.” Lee accounts for this potential effect by refusing to add “unnecessary highlights” in her clients’ brunette hair, especially since their locks will likely lighten on their own in the sun.
Red hair, on the other hand, is a constant battle and a “challenge in any season,” Lee likes to say. “Like my brunettes, I often encourage them to protects their color investment as much as possible, but also to embrace the lighter effect and natural dimension and fading that comes with the summer months,” she said. “If hydration is prioritized, then a sun-kissed version of your regular shade should sometimes be embraced. This means that a client who is usually a vibrant copper tone is closer to a sun-kissed strawberry by summer’s end, but that’s OK — it’s all beautiful.”