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    HomeFashionCan Couture Be Modern? A Look at the Fall 2025 Season

    Can Couture Be Modern? A Look at the Fall 2025 Season

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    At his Maison Margiela debut, the highlight of the season, Glenn Martens arrived at relevance from the opposite direction. Whereas van Herpen grew algae, Martens played with the veneer of decay, referencing ‘nature morte’ paintings and bricolaged designs, many of which were made from deadstock, which challenged the idea of value.

    Martens defied a linear understanding of time through a dialogue with the history of the house. By “resurrecting” existing materials he recognized the symbiosis between past and present (as the Smashing Pumpkins’ song that accompanied the show put it, “the killer in me is the killer in you”), creating a sense of continuity with what came before, both chez Margiela and more broadly in Northern Europe of the Middle Ages.

    The designer, who was looking at Gothic cathedrals and spires, which are monuments to creative human endeavor, didn’t shy away from the idea of revealing his process, either. As achingly beautiful as many of the clothes were, this wasn’t an easy show, it grappled with monumentality and mortality. Full-bodied and vital, it was a collection with a beating heart.

    Custom Taylor-ed

    At the couture, moodboard dressing was taken to the next level.

    Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

    Image may contain Elizabeth Taylor Clothing Dress Face Head Person Photography Portrait Dressing Room and Indoors

    Elizabeth Taylor in BUtterfield 8, 1960.

    Photo: MGM Studios / Getty Images

    Image may contain Nancy Cunard Clothing Coat Jacket Adult Person Face Head Photography Portrait and Body Part

    Nancy Cunard, 1932

    Photo: Bettmann

    Image may contain Accessories Jewelry Ornament Adult Person Wedding Body Part Finger Hand Bracelet and Wristwatch

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

    Midsummer Romance

    Ethereal white dresses and tops are coming your way.

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Gown Wedding Wedding Gown Adult Person and Accessories

    Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Footwear High Heel Shoe Adult Person Accessories Bag Handbag and Wedding

    Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Blouse Clothing Adult Person Sleeve and Shorts

    Chanel, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Person Adult and Wedding

    Julie de Libran, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Person Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Gown Wedding Wedding Gown Adult and Standing

    Maison Francesco Scognamiglio, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Stefano Galuzzi / Courtesy of Maison Francesco Scognamiglio

    Dangerous Liasions

    Dress like a latter-day Antoinette in a rococo dress—or like an Antoine in a frock coat.

    Image may contain Crystal Renn Fashion Clothing Dress Formal Wear Gown Footwear Shoe Wedding and Wedding Gown

    Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Fashion Adult Person Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Dress Sandal Accessories and Bracelet

    Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Formal Wear Suit Adult Person and Standing

    Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Adult Person Fashion Coat Electronics Mobile Phone and Phone

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

    Image may contain Melchor Múzquiz Art Painting Adult Person Face Head Photography Portrait Clothing and Coat

    Rene Savary, Duke of Rovigo.

    Photo: Print Collector / Getty Images

    Image may contain Alek Wek Tahmasp I Person Adult Clothing Coat Footwear High Heel Shoe and Fashion

    Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

    Belle-Epoque Curves

    From the Worth retrospective to the runways, curves rule.

    Image may contain Laura Whitmore Adult Person Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Glove Accessories and Jewelry

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

    Image may contain Fashion Adult Person Clothing Dress Formal Wear Footwear High Heel Shoe and Runway

    Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Monte Melkonian Clothing Glove Chair Furniture Accessories Bag Handbag Person Lamp and Adult

    Jean Béraud, Une Soirée, 1878.

    Photo: Heritage Images / Getty Images

    Image may contain Clothing Long Sleeve Sleeve Coat Adult Person Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Fashion and Desk

    Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

    Image may contain Lara Stone Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Evening Dress Gown Adult Person and Footwear

    Elie Saab, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

    On Form

    Couture was a Build-a-Body masterclass.

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Person Formal Wear Fashion Evening Dress Gown Wedding and Wedding Gown

    Christian Dior, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Paolo Lanzi / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Isabel Lucas Bill Kenney Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Fashion Gown and Footwear

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

    Image may contain Ren Liu Vera Wang Hanya Yanagihara Cathy Horyn Clothing Dress Adult Person and Formal Wear

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

    Image may contain Aida Nikolaychuk Clothing Costume Person Adult Face and Head

    Viktor & Rolf, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

    Rare Birds

    Designers dress taloned birds of prey as well as songbirds.

    Image may contain Person Adult Wedding Clothing Dress Footwear Sandal and Formal Wear

    Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Samantha Urbani Ivana Wong Person Clothing Dress Adult Wedding Footwear High Heel and Shoe

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Formal Wear Evening Dress Fashion Adult Person Gown Suit Accessories and Bag

    Zuhair Murad, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Person Cape and Clothing

    Maison Francesco Scognamiglio, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Stefano Galuzzi / Courtesy of Maison Francesco Scognamiglio

    Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Long Sleeve Sleeve Coat Glove Dress Face Head Photography and Portrait

    Chanel, fall 2025 couture

    Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde

    Image may contain Cape Clothing Adult Person Fashion Coat and Runway

    Armani Privé, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Gabrielle Daleman Performer Person Solo Performance Dancing Leisure Activities Adult and Clothing

    Viktor & Rolf, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain İsmail Hacıoğlu Face Head Person Photography Portrait Adult Wedding Fashion Clothing and Coat

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photographed by Acielle/Style Du Monde

    Image may contain Clothing Long Sleeve Sleeve Adult Person Wedding Dress Coat Fur and Fashion

    Giambattista Valli, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Giambattista Valli

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Fashion Adult Person Gown Performer and Solo Performance

    Iris van Herpen, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Adult Person Clothing Footwear Sandal Skirt Sleeve and Fashion

    Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

    Chlorophyl Dressing

    In a black and white season, green is a sign of hope and new beginnings.

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Footwear Sandal Person Adult Shoe Fashion and Gown

    Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Adult Person Formal Wear Fashion and Evening Dress

    Armani Privé, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Sasha Pivovarova Adult Person Clothing Dress Fashion Footwear High Heel Shoe and Formal Wear

    Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Cape Clothing Fashion Adult Person Footwear High Heel Shoe Dress and Cloak

    Natan, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Natan

    The Lady in Gold

    Designers took a shine to Gustav Klimt for fall.

    Image may contain Art Painting Adult Person Wedding Clothing Hat Accessories Jewelry and Necklace

    Gustav Klimt, Portrait of Adele Bloch-Bauer I, 1907

    Photo: Imagno / Getty Images

    Image may contain Ivana Wong Caroline Cellier Clothing Dress Evening Dress Formal Wear Electronics and Mobile Phone

    Schiaparelli, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

    Image may contain Person Adult Clothing Footwear Shoe Fashion Blouse Accessories Jewelry and Necklace

    Rahul Mishra, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Footwear Sandal Shoe Person Formal Wear Fashion Costume and Gown

    Maison Margiela, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

    Great Scots

    Innovative takes on this traditional weave.

    Image may contain Michaela Kocianova Person Adult Wedding Clothing Footwear Shoe Fashion Dress and Formal Wear

    Chanel, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Sleeve Dress Adult Person Fashion Formal Wear Footwear High Heel and Shoe

    Julie de Libran, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

    Chin Up

    Dashing collars frame the face.

    Image may contain Fashion Accessories Bag Handbag Clothing Dress Adult Person Footwear High Heel and Shoe

    Ashi Studio, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Coat Adult Person Glove Overcoat Face Head Photography Portrait Fashion and Standing

    Balenciaga, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga

    Image may contain Person Adult Clothing Footwear Sandal Accessories Jewelry and Necklace

    Ronald van der Kemp, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Salvatore Dragone / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Clothing Dress Fashion Formal Wear Adult Person Evening Dress Gown Coat Footwear and High Heel

    Natan, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Courtesy of Natan

    Aura Ring

    These clouds are not for storage.

    Image may contain Jade Parfitt Fashion Adult Person Clothing Dress Footwear High Heel Shoe and Performer

    Iris van Herpen, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com

    Image may contain Anja Antonowicz Fashion Adult Person Clothing Footwear High Heel Shoe Dress and Formal Wear

    Rahul Mishra, fall 2025 couture

    Photo: Umberto Fratini / Gorunway.com

    Back in Fashion

    Make like Missy Elliott and put it reverse.



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