“We spent three months working on the latex coat that closed our show,” explained Richert Beil designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, as the small crowd of guests slowly left their venue. “We cast every single rose petal by hand and assembled them with precision.” This season, they wanted to focus on the essentials: fewer looks, fewer guests—but all the more thought. Time was their scarcest resource; the pair recently moved into a new studio in a former 135-year-old pharmacy, which they are renovating themselves. “In the mornings, we went to the construction site, then after some hours the actual workday began,” they said.

The new collection symbolizes what the designers care most about: protecting their values and craftsmanship. This was particularly reflected in the tailoring; theirs is not hastily assembled clubwear created with hot glue guns in the backyard. The designers are just as skilled at cutting and lining as they are at choosing decorative elements. They achieved a successful balance with delicate elements: floral motifs that represented protection and tradition, and black latex lederhosen that brought their aesthetic into the future. The brand’s many fans, who were not deterred by the small guest list and watched the show on tiptoe through street windows, can also look forward to silk pants and shirts and handmade lace.