No matter what expectations and ideas one might have had for David Koma’s first menswear runway show, in the end it turned out quite differently. The title of the collection, I Love David, could have suggested that it would be a self-indulgent, autobiographical exploration of his life in fashion. Instead, he chose to place himself in direct comparison with his namesake: Michelangelo’s David. How do all men want to dress at their best? “It was my most personal collection to date, partly because I took on several roles: muse, designer, and customer,” said Koma backstage, surrounded by friends and journalists.

Anyone familiar with Koma’s womenswear may have had a very specific image in mind of what his menswear would look like. Black, cool, very body-conscious and clear in its sexy message. Instead we saw preppy and sporty joggers, oversized houndstooth patterns, and light resort shirts paired with gray suit pants. Even the tuxedo wasn’t black this time, with Koma sending it down the runway in a dark beige. It seemed as if he wanted to play a little with contrasts that have never been so clear in his design language before.

Rarely was it about necessity; everything was purely for the look. And when in doubt, that often meant combining a voluminous fur coat with ripped jeans and sandals. “The desire to now also do men’s fashion wasn’t just based on the desire to expand our brand. I also wanted to learn new things and train my design muscles,” Koma said with a grin. He was wearing an “I Love David” shirt under his jacket.