Many French brands nuzzle up to grand Parisian monuments, staging shows in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, under the soaring cupola of the Grand Palais, or smack dang at the Louvre.
Alexandre Mattuissi is more of a neighborhood guy, which is why he planted his Paris flagship store in the bustling Marais district, not tony Avenue Montaigne, and why he chose Place des Victoires, a madeleine’s throw from Ami headquarters, for his spring show.
“This is one of the most beautiful [squares] in Paris for me, and I wanted to celebrate that we are a company now. We are a house with lots of people, so I invited all my collaborators to see the show,” Mattiussi enthused during a preview. “It’s my neighborhood. I know everyone. I say hello to everyone from my window.”
On Wednesday night, models circled the bronze statue of King Louis XIV on a rearing horse, making you wish the people in your neighborhood looked this good.
Pleasing, unexpected color combinations have been a key story this menswear season, and Mattiussi flexed his muscles here, playing mostly with classic shades and some offbeat greens and yellows, but layering them up in a way that telegraphs a Parisian je ne sais quoi.
The ’70s mood simmering this season was also felt in the pointy collars, the suede over-shirts, the slim coats and the A-line skirts. Generous shapes, at times too generous, prevailed – roomy shirtdresses, boxy blazers, and big Bermudas – as did familiar fabrics such as cotton poplin, linen and denim.
Storm clouds threatened, but Mattiussi’s coed crew kept their composure, and those whose layers included gauzy windbreakers that had blown off their shoulders shrugged them back on as raindrops gathered.
The lousy weather seemed to reinforce the designer’s conviction that his brand represents real life.
“It’s not like a fashion show somewhere, and the reality of the store is different,” he said. “Everything we show here is real. Everything we show here is going to be sold.”
The collection included an apt slogan T-shirt that might put a song in your head if you’re fans of Dorothy, Blanche, Rose and Sophia. It says, “Thank You For Being a Friend.”