That Mordecai’s spring 2026 mood board had images of judokas in grappling holds was no surprise. Ludovico Bruno has based his hip brand on martial arts references since Day One: their combination with his outerwear expertise, distinctive take on tailoring and knack for cultural cross-pollination that add exotic echoes to the mix are what helped make his label recognizable in just a few seasons.

But another picture was among them until Bruno’s finger landed on it: Two Palestinian brothers captured in a poignant tight hug. “They’ve been separated by war, ending up in two different refugee camps. When there was the ceasefire they surprisingly found each other again, after thinking the other was dead,” said Bruno, as he noted the affinities in the gesture with those of the athletes. “At the end, in a fight, what looks like an enemy maybe is simply a friend you haven’t met yet and that hasn’t had your same life journey.”

The blurred lines between holds and hugs, clash and encounter were translated into a collection that cast a new light on Bruno’s work. His loose yet controlled silhouettes were flanked by narrower volumes; a sense of abandonment influenced zippered and detachable detailing, while his signature puffers and knits were reworked in shape and see-through construction to vaguely evoke sculpted physiques and human anatomy.

“In a hug, all textures get mixed up, too,” said Bruno, who worked with disparate fabrications, ranging from nylon for technical windbreakers to leather for his personal take on biker jackets, and passing through different versions on lightweight cotton, including wax-coated ones for heightened performance.

Mordecai’s signature stripes mingled with prints as never before. In addition to motifs winking to Suzani rugs and Indian scarves, Bruno introduced the brand’s first proper print, reprising a painting by his friend and artist Alessandro Mannelli. Displayed on a white shirt, it shows two men head-to-head on the front. Are they about to fight or hug?