Andy Samberg, Daniel Radcliffe, Jesse Tyler Ferguson, Hasan Minhaj and Neil Patrick Harris and husband David Burtka all call on New York-based fashion stylist Sam Spector to create their streamlined red carpet looks. Yet Spector has made an out-of-the-box splash with his other gig: crafting Alan Cumming’s fabulous head-turning fits as host of Peacock’s whodunit reality TV competition series, The Traitors. Season three wrapped March 6, and the show has been renewed for two more installments. How Cumming’s costumes, tied to each episode’s themed mission, continue to outdo themselves and build upon the suspense at the Scottish castle has become a secondary storyline and viral sensation. The theatricality of the looks has crescendoed from one season to the next.

“It’s been a natural progression, as fans have been so eager to see this campy character come to life,” says Spector. “This is all new for me, being a costume designer. It has created a whole new part of my career and afforded me so much creative vision and fun. Having Alan be open to doing these crazy looks, as a host playing a character, is such a unique moment in reality television. No one really does it other than RuPaul, you know?”

The Traitors costume design is a close collab between Spector and Cumming, who between seasons text each other inspirational images from fashion shows, history and pop culture. Then Spector compiles mood boards that align with each episode.

“The first time we see Alan in episode one [of season three], he is entering on a white horse, so I wanted it to feel super Scottish,” says Spector. “I was inspired by Outlander characters wearing an old riding jacket and images of historical Celtic figures on horses. For the third episode, we looked at images of ringmasters and historical circus characters; I embellished a plain Gigi Burris top hat with tartan ribbon and a feather. For episode 10, I collaborated with L.A. designer Michael Ngo, who has worked with Ariana Grande and Beyoncé, to create a glam, S&M-y version of Mary, Queen of Scots with a pleather panel on the plaid kilt, pleather pearl-trimmed gloves and a shiny gold chest plate.” 

Two bridal designs also made it into the mix. Episode five stars a glittery seafoam green suit with dramatic pleated sleeve extensions, pulled from the 2023 haute couture runway of Australian bridal designer Alin Le’Kal, and an “angelic” headpiece synced with the last-minute church setting. Spector designed Cumming’s white tuxedo bridal gown for episode seven, “ ’Til Death Us Do Part,” and partnered with New York designer Zero Waste Daniel to craft a dramatic, climbing red boutonniere from scraps of recycled fabric.

For a few weeks after each fitting, Spector’s New York office becomes an epicenter for deconstruction and DIY custom embellishment. “It feels like a Project Runway workroom, where we’re scrambling to get each detail finished — like literally they come to pick up the clothes to take to Scotland and it’s ‘scissors down, time’s up,’ ” he says.

Spector conjured up a headband made of chess pieces for episode nine and swapped out the sleeves on an off-the-rack Suitsupply tweed jacket in episode six for a multicolored sequin pair to amp up the glam. Another fave sleeve switch-out was on a powder blue Paul Smith jacket in episode eight, with voluminous tiered white sleeves inspired by horror movie dolls. The ultimate finishing touch? A baby doll head with red beaded eyes in place of a pocket square.

As Spector ponders how Cumming can make the most over-the-top costumes “actually look normal, for some reason,” our talk turns to a gray tweed jacket by designer Stephen Mikhail of Atelier Cillian that was embellished with moss in episode four, an ode to that mission’s Easter Island theme. “A lot of people thought that was broccoli, but it was moss appliqué dripping with hand-beaded jeweled crystals, and then we added a poufed tulle overlay,” he says.

Cumming’s vegan lifestyle adds another factor, which translates into faux fur and pleather, from gloves custom-made by Amsterdam brand C’est Jeanne to punk vegan creepers from Chicago label Straight to Hell and more cruelty-free footwear from Matt & Nat.

Cameos by Lala, Cumming’s sidekick rescue dog, extend The Traitors’ kitsch drama to the canine world. “Lala’s costumes are getting more and more elaborate, and she’s becoming more and more of a diva,” reports Spector. “We’re buying teeny-tiny top hats and embellishing them with beads. Equally as much care goes into her costumes. Alan and I share Instagram accounts with full-on couture gowns for dogs. Now Lala is requesting first-class travel and multiple beds throughout the castle in sunlit areas so she can relax during shots. She’s become a real star.”

As the fashionably faithful collectively hold their breath for season four, the stylist extraordinaire confirms Lala will be back and that, in The Traitors’costume game, more is always more. 

“We’re in the middle of it right now,” says Spector. “It’s way more dramatic, way more theatrical, a lot more sequins, glitz and glamour. I think we’ve kind of lost our minds for next season, and that’s the only way we would have it!”

This story first appeared in a June stand-alone issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.