Paul Smith would be the opposite of the ivory-tower fashion designer. For his first menswear showing in Milan, the gregarious Brit mingled with guests before the show, provided a stream-of-consciousness narration over the soundtrack, and bounded out for his bow with smiles and waves for everyone.
His 236 guests sat on rows of colorful plastic food cartons, which dovetailed with the designer’s obsession with markets, where he has been known to take photos of exceptional tomato displays.
One model strolled by lugging a string bag bulging with oranges, which reinforced that Smith creates clothes for real life, not runways.
The collection was inspired by trips to hot climes he’s made over the years, its earthy, sun-bleached palette nodding to Egypt, Morocco and India, and the slightly lived-in patina of some fabrics suggesting the wearer has already toured his share of spice stalls.
Milan is in the midst of a heatwave, which heightened the appeal of his vibrant, tropical-print shirts in gauzy fabrics; his sleeveless V-neck sweaters in zesty shades, Bermuda shorts, and his thin-soled, slipper-like loafers and flat, cycling-inspired sneakers.
Here was a straightforward collection which skewed dressy and tailored, but worn with an offhand attitude.
There was whimsy in the fish motifs swimming over billowing shirts, the space-dyed twinsets and the birds appliquéd onto a plain suit jacket.
The color combinations were striking – anise green with gray, orange with mauve, fuchsia with olive – and added a faint ’70s vibe that was also felt in the short leather car coats.
Utility pockets and berets were there for a reason, as Smith often spends Saturdays at his Albemarle Street store in London listening to — and waiting on — customers.
“They want more of a hint of military, or of a uniform,” Smith said during a preview, confessing his go-to garment these days is a seersucker jacket with four patch pockets.
Lo and behold that’s what he wore on Saturday, looking neat in the heat.