Pre-collections are a relatively new exercise for Ann Demeulemeester’s Stefano Gallici, since the brand introduced them only last year. Yet they are proving to be instrumental in the designer’s journey, fueling the dialogue between his world of references and the house’s archives but keeping him more grounded compared to the preparation of runway shows.

That was the case for his resort 2026 collection, which offered a simplified, neater perspective on Gallici’s vision for the brand, here instilled into uncomplicated designs. “Shows are starting to have more and more personality and I sometimes feel completely immersed into storytelling for those. This is a different but still interesting exercise. It’s less loud and clearer,” said the designer at a walk-through in Milan.

The free-spirited, rock attitude and mix of raw energy and delicacy that have been marking his shows were tamed and imbued into a more urban wardrobe of fashion archetypes, ranging from trenchcoats and biker jackets to shirting and denim.

In between these wearable staples and the brand’s signatures like waistcoats, apron-like skirts and slouchy tailoring were some interesting additions, including a bomber jacket in froissé velvet that interrupted the dominance of austere lines and black looks with its soft hand and sandy hue. Shirts and slipdresses cut from fluid satin or devoré velvet — either striped or worked in floral patterns — also stood out for creating a nice textural contrast against the cotton or leather separates and for telegraphing the dark romanticism of the brand.