Jun Takahashi’s Undercover is one of fashion’s most evocatively articulate labels when it comes to wreathing its collections with atmosphere and storytelling. The flipside of that upside is that when a collection is delivered in purely photographic format, as here, the absence of atmosphere and storytelling feels magnified.

Still, with a little imagination, you could project a path for Undercover’s breezily attired pre-spring protagonists. They trod it in slingback mules, quite Birkenstock Tokio but more refined of sole. Like the painted straw wide-brimmed hats that topped each look, these mules were marked with cursive scrawl that read ‘i am chaos.’ Yet that graphic seemed misdirectionally performative decoration in a collection that was highly organized in its exploration of multiple menswear standards.

Bowling shirts, tailored collar parka jackets, camp collar shirts in washed cotton with interestingly textured patches, henleys, oversized linen suiting, short-shirt sets studded with utility pockets, cardigans, frayed knit sweater vests, a knit-backed leather jacket and some stadium jackets were amongst the repertoire. The collection displayed Undercover’s new wave resonance, but at an extremely gentle frequency: punk but politely so.