If you purchase an independently reviewed product or service through a link on our website, WWD may receive an affiliate commission.

Cosmetic consumers are no longer adopting an “anything goes” mentality when it comes to the products they’re putting on their skin. Chemical-heavy formulas and products with synthetic additives are now being tossed out to make room for holistic options as calls for clean beauty alternatives intensify.  According to a 2023 survey by NielsenIQ, an estimated 40.2 percent of consumers have switched their product lineups to prioritize options with all-natural ingredients instead. At the heart of this ingredient-conscious movement is the use of sesame oil in skin care.  

“Sesame oil can be beneficial. It’s rich in antioxidants, vitamin E and fatty acids, which help moisturize the skin, support barrier function and protect against free radical damage,” Dr. Shamsa Kanwal, a consultant dermatologist, told WWD. “It also has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and emollient properties. It can help soothe dry or irritated skin, improve moisture retention and even assist in wound healing. It also has mild natural SPF properties, though it cannot replace sunscreen.” 

Already, several drugstore and prestige beauty brands have introduced sesame oil-infused face and body care essentials, including Neutrogena, Kiehl’s, Caudalie and Aura Cacia. They use a certain type of oil called cosmetic-grade sesame oil, which has been purified and refined specifically for its use in beauty products. The market for this oil is currently valued at an estimated $150 million, according to Archive Market Research, and is projected to yield a compound annual growth rate of 7 percent over the next eight years. 

The ideal customer for this kind of skin care formula is someone with dry or aging skin, Kanwal said. People with acne-prone skin, on the other hand, shouldn’t be reaching for these oily products due to the thick consistency, which can clog pores. 

“While cosmetic-grade sesame oil is considered unlikely to clog pores, unrefined sesame oil has a higher comedogenic rating and can clog pores. Of course it’s completely dependent on how a product is formulated,” said Kristen Sgarlato, head of product development and innovation at Naturopathica, a botanical skin care brand.

“It may also trigger allergic reactions in sensitive individuals, especially those with a sesame allergy,” Kanwal pointed out, noting the risk of contact dermatitis. 

That said, conditions such as eczema or psoriasis can feed off the product formula to soothe and hydrate the skin, according to Kanwal. To apply the product, Kanwal suggests taking a small amount and working it in to clean, damp skin, either with or without moisturizer. Sesame oil skin care can also be used as an overnight oil treatment. 

If you ask Monika Dragaj, facialist and founder of Monika Dragaj Studio, her opinion on the all-natural ingredient, she’d candidly admit she’s not a fan. “I don’t like sesame oil in skin care. In fact​, none of my skin care products have it other than a hair oil,” she confessed. “Sesame seed oil may be fine for some to use but in my opinion there are better, safer oils available for use on the skin without risk. It’s also extremely heavy and greasy​, which for most is not a desirable texture and likely to be very pore clogging.”

For those eager to see if the unlikely beauty agent is the answer to their dry skin, Sgarlato said it’s important “to check if it’s refined or unrefined to mitigate risks.” She noted: “You may not enjoy using sesame oil that you pick up from the grocery store even if it is refined that isn’t designed for skin care — expert skin care product formulation is critical for maximizing product benefits and making sure the use experience is enjoyable, what we in the industry refer to as being ‘cosmetically elegant.’”

Shop Top Sesame Oil-based Body Care Essentials Today