LAS VEGAS — The Couture Show touched down here last week and, despite the global uncertainty due to tariffs and the rising costs of raw materials, particularly gold, designers and buyers showed up with a sense of resilience and focus. 

“There were less people at the fair from last year but it was more serious and more focused buyers for us who want to build a bigger partnership with their brands to resonate with their customers,” said Massimo Zerbini, chief executive officer of the Sobe Luxury Group, the distributor for Chantecler, Peruffo, Terzihan, Giovanni Ferraris and Chiarelli in the U.S. and Caribbean.

“Quality, unique product and value proposition were at the core of our business for Couture this year. While there is still market trepidation, heirloom high-quality investment pieces are still very meaningful in the market,” he added.

The annual trade exhibition for fine jewelry and timepieces saw around 300 brands exhibit this year, and while buyers were cautious, many brands reported opening new accounts. “We opened some new single independent accounts and redefined our presence and work with Saks Global Group, hopefully to be a part of their new business strategy in a meaningful way,” Zerbini said.

In such uncertain times, trends tend to hold less value. Rather, the conversation at the fair was focused on special pieces with storytelling that would entice a cautious consumer to buy.

“Our clients recognize us for our commitment to quality and distinctive point of view,” explained designer Renna Brown-Taher, who was on the main show floor for the second year after debuting in The Couture Design Ateiler, where she showed for three years.

Her brand Reena has seen a 250 percent increase in average order value. “This affirms what we’ve always believed: that brands with not only exceptional products but also a clear, intentional world —where design, storytelling, and craftsmanship align — will continue to thrive and earn lasting loyalty,” she said.

Talk of Gold

Talk about the rising cost of gold was front and center across the show floor. Some creatives are leaning into the material, understanding that buyers and ultimately consumers understand that they are buying an investment piece that will retain value.

Melissa Kaye said her new collection was “gold intensive. However, at our core we are a gold and diamond brand and our retailers and clients remain loyal to us because of our commitment to design-driven, investment-worthy jewelry. We feel that it is important to stay true to our DNA.”

Other brands, like Sylva Yepremian of Sylvia & Cie, created one-of-kind pieces that excited retailers. Her pieces use components that are millennia old, such as museum quality cylinder seals, cameos and intaglios from the ancient Roman and Mesopotamian eras.

“We always have a mad rush from buyers to see the one-of-a-kind items, even before the show starts. They are eager to book an appointment on the preview night, so they can be the first to review them and also to make their picks,” she said. “I feel like it gives the retailer an opportunity to have something to offer their clients that are truly pieces of art that cannot be repeated.”

The Design Atelier offered a mix of fresh talent eager to meet buyers and media. Hiba Husayni’s Zhan — a first time DA member — scooped up the Design Award for Best Debut. “Winning was a total surprise and such a proud moment,” Husayni said. “People arrived already knowing what they wanted. That kind of intention and brand recognition is surreal and deeply validating.”

Overall, buyers showed up with intention. Here, WWD speaks to them on the impact of the rise in gold prices, trends and key takeaways from the 2025 show.

Alysa Teichman, co-owner, Ylang 23

How has the show been for you, compared to previous years? The show felt a bit quieter than in previous years but it was my sense that overall the buyers and designers attending were serious. 

Any surprises? Our team was completely captivated by newness from Retrouvaí and Jade Ruzzo. From Retrouvaí it was the Bond Collection, which is an homage to things that have been broken and put back together. Jade Ruzzo’s Gloria collection, named after Jade’s daughter, had so many modern heirlooms that we can’t stop thinking about. In an off year where gold is at an all-time high, we didn’t know what to expect but feel that overall, designers really “brought it” this year.

How many new brands have you picked up this year? We went to the show with the intention of going deeper into our existing brands but have one to two that we are considering adding to our assortment. 

Are you buying differently than you were a year ago? We are more laser focused than ever on pieces that have meaning and an heirloom quality.

How are rising gold and material prices impacting your buying decisions? We saw a lot of designers bringing back leather and silk cords for the second year, a direct result of rising gold prices. We also saw some brands go all-in on heavier gold pieces, such as Nouvel Heritage, who super-sized their popular latch silhouette with a giant suite of necklaces, and Lucy Delius, who has continued to produce bolder-than-before gold chains.  

What aesthetic trends are catching your eye this year? Given the high price of gold, we found that designers are really leaning into the idea of heirloom jewelry. A few of our favorites were the Knot collection by Lizzie Mandler and Octavia Elizabeth’s handmade bespoke locket, both inspired by the designers’ own newborns. 

Any stones or motifs that feel especially relevant? We’re going all-in on whimsy and fun from brands like Sydney Evan, L’Atelier Nawbar, and Yvonne Leon. In a macro climate with so much uncertainty, we find that clients really seek jewelry that inspires feelings of joy. We were also captivated by the newness from Azlee, such as a new coin with a phoenix rising from the ashes, which signified renewal and rebirth after the Los Angeles fires. 

Takeaway? We’re continuing to focus on special one-of-a-kind and personalized pieces. In an environment that feels more crowded with designers and retailers than ever before, our clients are looking for special pieces that have meaning. 

Laura Freedman, founder and CEO, Broken English

How has the show been for you, compared to previous years? It was a nice steady pace. It seemed as though the designers had positive feedback. All of the buyers that made appointments were serious. The events were fun and it’s always a pleasure to see everyone. 

Any surprises? Lucy Delius is creating a fun spin on Victorian jewelry. She has taken into account price, design and functionality. The pieces are wearable, personalizable and fun. Selim Mouzannar is taking enamel to the next level. His pieces are timeless and well made. To celebrate Azlee’s 10-year anniversary they have really stepped up to the next level but stayed true to their core. 

How many new brands have you picked up this year? We will most likely pick up three or four new brands this year. 

Are you buying differently than you were a year ago? Not really. It’s all about the diversity, finding lines that have a unique perspective, and you love working with. 

How are rising gold prices impacting your buying? It kinda is what it is. There isn’t much to do about it other than staying true to your core and communicating with your clients. I am in support of the designers that we carry. Innovations like silk cords, leather, and different stones and material choices are a great way to address rising costs and pushing boundaries. 

What aesthetic trends are catching your eye this year? I’m loving color and the different uses of it like enamel, stones and alternative materials. People are not afraid of statement pieces.

Any particular stones, cuts or motifs that feel especially relevant? Selim has come up with his own patented diamond. People are reintroducing mixed cuts. I some really pretty pieces by Azlee, Arunashi, and Anita Ko. Ox has a really beautiful and innovative rolling bezel that I was loving.

Takeaway? I was really taken away by the amount of support and community at this year’s show. The brands that we work with are so supportive and I think that is what makes working in jewelry so special. I could not imagine being part of a more tighter-knit community of artists and retailers. 

John Green, president and CEO, Lux Bond & Green & Store52 

How has the show been, compared to previous years? Our team experienced great energy and enthusiasm from both the brand and retail community. Yes, lots of conversation about the world political climate, tariffs and the material costs but overall business is good and if you invest in inventory and people it will continue. 

Any surprises? The more established brands such as Marco Bicego, Paul Morelli, Alex Sepkus, Temple St. Clair, and Roberto Coin all had beautiful new collections and extensions with very salable price points.

How many new brands have you picked up this year? About six.

Are you buying differently than you were a year ago? Asking more questions as many companies we do business with have production in several locations around the world and we need to understand the potential tariff implications.

How are rising gold prices impacting your buying? Are brands experimenting with alternative materials, or sticking to high-value metals? We stuck to platinum or 18-karat yellow gold. Some smaller scale items were beautifully designed to meet our merchandising needs for price and value.

What aesthetic trends are catching your eye? Beautiful colored stones, whimsical designs, naturalistic related designs and the basics with a bit of flair were what we saw to offer our clients for the seasons ahead.

Any particular stones or motifs that feel relevant? Back to more cabachons and great use of colors, from colorful tourmalines to emeralds and sapphires. 

Takeaway? Quality and value with our approach to picking international designs and designers is proving to be a smart strategy. From the wonderful American designers to our friends in Italy and new Japanese designs, Lebanese, Turkish  and Indian companies, it’s smart to find the balance and build relationships around the world.  

Anne Russell, executive vice president, Hamilton Jewelers

How has the show been for you this year compared to previous years?  The shows I attended last week — Luxury, JCK, Couture and the Antique jewelry show — had the same excitement and innovation, particularly from new designers, and beautiful and inspiring creations from Couture designers.

Any surprises? Yellow gold is still appearing to be the dominant metal color. I noticed a lot of color in gemstones but also enamel and colored titanium, which I love. I also noticed a ’70s retro influence with more modern tubogas treatments, bold cuffs and hardstones. Last year’s trend of Georgian revival was present again this year.

How many new brands have you picked up this year?  We launched one new brand in Q1 2025 in Palm Beach, and we are looking to launch one additional brand and strengthen our relationships with our existing brand partners in our markets.  

Are you buying differently than you were a year ago?  Yes, the price of gold and trade impacts have made us very careful in our buying. We are making sure we fully understand landed costs with any international partners.

 How are rising gold prices impacting your buying decisions? Yes of course, when gold is at a record high it makes buying decisions more complicated. Understanding and evaluating your current inventory and understanding what you need and what your client demands as prices rise. Luckily for the moment we see that client demand for luxury materials is strong in our markets and that clients see value and beauty in gold and gemstones with expert craftsmanship and design.

 What aesthetic trends are catching your eye this year?  Wearability, not price, is what I think is key in terms of trends. Can our clients see themselves wearing the jewelry every day, from day to night, in the office or at the gym regardless of the price? That is key.

Any particular stones that feel especially relevant?  Mixed cuts feel interesting to me right now. I purchased a pair of oval, step-cut diamonds that are beautiful and geometric. I can’t wait to set them as earrings.  

Takeaway?: I’m cautiously optimistic for Q3 and 4 growth with our existing designer partners. We are looking to continue to strengthen those relationships and build those businesses with curated events that allow our clients to see the most innovative and beautifully made jewelry in a personalized way.

Alex Lippin, senior vice president of jewelry buying, Elyse Walker

How has the show been for you this year compared to previous years? I look forward to attending every year.  I truly enjoy seeing all of the new collections from our designers and to discover new and emerging brands. This community is truly so supportive and collaborative, and while it is certainly work, I feel lucky to get to see all of my friends and colleagues within the industry.  

Any surprises? There is incredible talent in the jewelry industry. I am always so blown away by the creativity and craftsmanship. Lauren Harwell Godfrey’s nod to her birth year (1975) and the 1970s is just one example. From her spinning disco balls, to hotel room keys, granny blanket crochet motifs and googly-eyed pet rock pendants, Lauren creates the most beautiful and fun designs that can’t help but make you smile.  Susan Cohen’s debut collection for Couture was also a standout favorite.  Her pieces are a mix of time periods and themes that play on luck, love and protection that will resonate with a modern collector. 

How many new brands have you picked up this year? We will probably pick up four to five new brands this year.

Are you buying differently than you were a year ago? Every year you buy slightly differently. You introduce trends, new designers, new styles but you are always buying with our clients in mind. 

How are rising gold prices impacting your buying? For the most part, brands seem to be sticking with high value metals. We all recognize that the price of gold is not going down anytime soon, so we all need to adjust. 

What aesthetic trends are catching your eye? We saw lots of layered charms on standout chains, bold vintage-style chunky pieces and styles that incorporate dynamic movement. Also, many designers introduced one-of-a-kind designs which our clients always gravitate toward.

Any stones that feel especially relevant? Lots of bezel settings, bright bold colored gemstones, and fresh takes on timeless pearls.

Takeaway? Sometimes less is more.  The real value is in curating designers and collections that have a clear, distinct point of view and a story to tell.  If you love a line but cannot represent it in all categories, it’s OK to tell the story in a more edited, meaningful way. I’m reminded that impact doesn’t necessarily come from quantity, but also from clarity.

Matthew Rosenheim, president, Tiny Jewel Box

How has the show been for you this year compared to previous years? This year’s show has maintained its exceptional quality while becoming noticeably more international in scope. The abundance of high-caliber designs and craftsmanship continues to support quality retailers nationwide. We were especially impressed by the emerging designers featured in the Design Atelier at Couture, each presenting distinctive and thoughtfully crafted collections.

Any surprises? One standout moment was celebrating the 25th anniversary of one of our most beloved and long-standing jewelry brand partners, Marco Bicego. Another highlight came from Alex Sepkus, whose new bead collections showcased remarkably fresh creativity, while staying true to the style that defines the brand. 

How many new brands have you picked up this year? We are still finalizing our selections, but there are a couple of new brands we are seriously considering. Among the notable emerging designers, Ox and Nefertiti really stood out with their very distinctive and compelling designs. 

Are you buying differently than you were a year ago? This year we are focusing more on accent and highlight pieces that can diversify and elevate our existing presentation and collections in our store. We are being more strategic and selective in order to introduce a fresh energy by layering in unique pieces that complement what we already offer. 

How are rising gold prices impacting your buying ? At this moment, we are not making any major changes to our buying strategy based on the market price fluctuations. While the market has shifted, we have not seen any significant change in consumer purchase behavior at the counter and we believe many independent retailers are experiencing the same. 

What aesthetic trends are catching your eye this year? We are seeing a strong trend toward cleaner, more modern designs, which are really resonating with our customers. This aesthetic naturally complements everyday, casual wear, and reflects the way people are dressing and accessorizing in their day-to-day lives.

Any particular stones that feel especially relevant? Multicolor stones, especially sapphires, are definitely catching our attention this year. We are also seeing a strong influence of geometric shapes, not only in the stones themselves but in the metals as well. 

Takeaway? One key takeaway we are bringing home is the importance of moving beyond traditional styles toward more unique and diversified designs. Despite the uncertainty in the market, we are seeing remarkable resilience among customers seeking jewelry of high design and superior craftsmanship. There’s still a strong sense of optimism, and business remains steady, which encourages us to continue evolving our offerings.

Katherine Jetter, founder and CEO, The Vault Nantucket 

How has the show been for you this year compared to previous years?  It was a great show, many designers had exciting new collections and the energy in the room was great. The team at Couture never ceases to amaze me by making every year better than the last; it’s a massive undertaking to pull this all off. 

Any surprises? Tariffs have definitely created chaos; prices were all over the place. Some designers have chosen to keep pricing as-is until they sell through existing, landed production, others have decided to price up their goods at the new production tariff prices, causing large variances in pricing on similar products. Then there are the newer designers starting out with new production who have to place orders and produce at the new tariff pricing and face having to consider undercutting their margins just to have a chance to enter the market.  Overall, designers are being more conservative in the number of skus they are producing. Most designers were keeping their one-of-a-kind products at their existing prices and only pricing production items with the new tariff prices. I was very happy to see so much innovation despite the challenging environment. 

How many new brands have you picked? Six or seven.

Are you buying differently than you were a year ago? No, but I am curious to see how the consumer will react to the price increases. My intuition is that we are more likely to sell high value specialty pieces this year and less production type product. 

How are rising gold prices impacting your buying decisions? Brands are staying more with gold and diamonds, less with playful materials and mixed mediums, contrary to what one would expect with high gold prices. At a time where prices are so high, a lot of designers are choosing to keep things clear to the end consumer on what they are buying; gold and diamonds are easier to explain in terms of value.  

What aesthetic trends are catching your eye this year? I’m in love with the new orange and green enamel colors from Buddha Mama, it’s so joyful and fresh. Sevan Bıçakçı’s collection was more beautiful than ever, with a lot of feminine, pastel hues.  Lots of clever and innovative uses of gold with movement to make items feel wearable and casual, whilst optimizing use of gold weight and diamonds for maximum visual impact. 

Any motifs that feel especially relevant? Zodiacs seem to be very prevalent, as well as letters. 

Takeaway? Just how important it is to stay informed, keep your finger on the pulse and be present each year to see all the collections as they grow and evolve, as the changes are often subtle and easier to understand when experienced firsthand. Also, how important the sense of community and the relationships are. It’s always so nice to see each other. Even if five days in Vegas is exhausting for both the designers and the retailers, it’s totally worth it.