“Where glamour and grunge converge.”Julien Dossena was clarifying this line during a Zoom chat yesterday. The references behind this collection span vintage Ossie Clark, a possible touch of Kurt Cobain, and a definite one of Françoise Hardy: “she’s always there somewhere,” he laughed.

Yet Dossena contemporized all of these in such a way that the ’70s-slash-’90s references are dissolved into the brand signatures he’s established, renovating the glitter and the chainmail associated with the house. There’s a party side to this—see the slinky draped chainmail dresses and the tortoiseshell-toned paillette covered midi, as well as the maxi silhouettes at the end.

This section, he explained, is Rabanne’s Celebration collection, which drops for the holidays in November. A printed backdrop depicting Paco Rabanne’s futuristic pad in Paris denotes the looks. The other side of it is Rabanne resort. Here the background changes to a photo of the lobby of Rabanne’s building, “like they’re just on their way out.”

Rabanne by day takes in a brown A-line crocodile-embossed leather skirt with a mint-colored shrunken knit featuring a chunky metal chain embedded in the neckline, a slick caramel leather look Dossena likens to French patisserie, and the fake fur he’s been championing since last season’s show.