Each year the Couture jewelry show welcomes a mix of new brands into the fold, helping to link them up with the creatives, buyers and executives who walk the show. One area that is always top of mind for buyers and creatives is the Design Atelier. Over a three-year period the emerging brands in that section gain exposure, mentorship and community.
The 2025 edition will see 12 brands join the club. Here, WWD looks at the freshman class of the Design Atelier, the show’s incubator for fresh jewelry talent.
White Space ring.
Courtesy White Space
White Space, founded by Khadijah Fulton in 2016; Los Angeles
Price range: $500 to $11,000
Aesthetic: Clean, sensuous lines juxtaposed against organic pearl shapes and unexpected details. The collection is predominantly 14-karat gold, reclaimed diamonds and unique natural pearls.
Signature pieces: Diamond Continuity ring, Bold Continuity ring, Sene ring, Diamond Cloudbar earrings, Double Baroque necklace, Palazzo earrings.
Inspiration: “I’m deeply inspired by simplicity of form in various art movements through the ages, and how it can convey emotion through elegance, beauty and restraint. The through-line between African sculpture and Japanese craftsmanship to modern art, product design and architecture, for example — these are themes that I come back to over and over again. As a woman and mother, there is also a feeling of strong femininity and sensuality that I enjoy exploring. Most of my clients are women buying for themselves, and there is power in wearing something for yourself that feels subtle, sexy and inspiring every day. I strive to create that for myself first when I’m designing, and in turn, I hope that it becomes that for the clients that wear my collection.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time Design Atelier member? “The energy and the community! I can’t wait to be surrounded by the creative and interesting personalities at the show, as well as all of the inspiring work of fellow designers. Couture is the place where creatives have the opportunity to push their ideas forward, and as a design nerd, I’m excited to be in the company of so many others that are passionate about creating things that bring beauty into the world. As a DA debutante, I feel like I’m just at the ‘tip of my iceberg’ in so many ways. It’s an exciting opportunity to keep growing, surrounded by the deep well of knowledge and experience that comes together only at Couture.”
By Pariah jewels.
Courtesy By Pariah
By Pariah, founded by Sophie Howard in 2018; London
Price range: 14-karat gold: $500 to $11,500; silver: $200 to $1,700
Aesthetic: Minimalism, sculptural and timeless. 100 percent recycled 14-karat gold or sterling silver, untreated natural hard stones and natural diamonds.
Signature pieces: Classic ring stack, Pebble pendants and Pebble cocktail rings.
Inspiration: “I love the intersection of heritage and innovation — where traditions meet bold, modern ideas. My work is often rooted in cultural storytelling but reimagined through a contemporary lens. Nature, architecture and human emotion also play a huge role in my creative process. I’m constantly inspired by the way jewelry can speak without words and connect people across different backgrounds.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “I can’t wait to connect with the community of visionary designers and industry leaders. I’m looking forward to pushing creative boundaries and hopefully growing through the experience.”
Maison H jewelry.
Courtesy Maison H
Maison H, founded by Fatima Tayob in 2001; Dubai
Price range: $1,100 to $100,000
Aesthetic: Fluidity, femininity and comfort yet statement pieces. Using 18-karat gold and natural diamonds and precious stones, all untreated.
Signature pieces: Skin and Movante
Inspiration: “Nature’s art.”
Zahn-Z jewelry.
Courtesy Zahn-Z
Zahn-Z, founded by Hiba Husayni in 2021; New York City and New Jersey
Price range: $500 to $40,000
Aesthetic: “Zahn-Z lives at the intersection of freedom, fluidity and vibrant expression. Embracing organic forms, unstructured beauty. However, the visual language is not bound by rules — it moves, shifts and evolves.” Zahn-Z uses 14-karat and 18-karat gold, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, tanzanite, tourmaline, spinel, paraiba, tsavorite, rhodolite and spessartite.
Signature pieces: The Zaha, Sadaf, Beluga collections; Honey Money Nugget charms and We Clicked rings.
Inspiration: “Architecture, marine life, cultures and nature in general.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “I’m looking forward to connecting with editors and retailers, introducing them to the world of Zahn-Z, exploring fresh opportunities, and fully immersing in the vibrant, electric energy that only Couture delivers.”
Ohliguer rings.
Courtesy of Ohliguer
Ohliguer, founded by sisters Jessica and Holly Cooper in 2021; Noosa Heads, Australia and Paris
Price range: From $2,000 to $200,000
Aesthetic: “Fierce. Bold. Unapologetic. We use 18-karat and 22-karat ethically sourced gold exclusively. Our Croc Collection features Australian argyle diamonds (pink, yellow and white), akoya and South Sea pearls. Our knot collection centers on an array of colored stones including emeralds, rubies and sapphires.”
Signature pieces: “Our most iconic pieces are our Croc Cuff and our 8-carat emerald forget me knot worn by Gwen Stefani.”
Inspiration: “Our mysterious family heritage that dates to the time of the Russian Tsars.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “Connecting with people in our industry and potential retailers.”
Joelle Kharrat pendant.
Courtesy Joelle Kharrat
Joelle Kharrat, founded by Joelle Kharrat in 2022; Beirut, Lebanon
Price range: $4,000 to $12,000
Aesthetic: Totem pendants, sculptural and artsy, in 18-karat yellow gold, natural wood, mother-of-pearl and opals.
Signature pieces: Totem pendant in wood and 18-karat yellow gold.
Inspiration: A Lebanese sculptor named Salwa Raouda Choucair.
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “To meet other designers that inspire me and be able to show the beautiful craftsmanship behind my Totem pendants.”
LÖF jewelry.
Courtesy LÖF
LÖF, founded by Morgan Mackintosh in 2023; Los Angeles
Price range: “Most pieces range from $6,000 to $80,000. A few pieces are between $2,000 and $6,000 and then $180,000 to $280,000.”
Aesthetic: “Contemporary Art Deco/emeralds, diamonds, sapphires, spinel, tourmaline, turquoise, ruby.”
Signature pieces: The Valentine ring, The Maze rings, The Tallulah earrings and ring, The Empire chain.
Inspiration: “I get most of my inspiration flicking through interiors or architecture books. I also like to snap my surroundings; there were some cracks in a wall and a carpet pattern that inspired The André necklace. And then often the spaces between buildings, a window frame, or the beautiful and intricate architecture of historic or religious buildings will spark something. I have an ever-expanding photo album on my phone of inspiration: everything from tile patterns, broken pavements, random buildings, to historic landmarks. When I am sketching, I will scan through to see what pops out. Or, as in the case of the book ‘Elements of Architecture,’ I will see a photo and immediately start to draw a piece. I used to song write for a company back in the day and it is not dissimilar to how we approached that. We would pool ideas into a huge, shared document of lyrics — phrases or just words — and we would go through it to write songs whilst listening to the backing track. I love this method of creating and I think that’s probably why it’s felt like such a natural method of finding inspiration for me.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “There’s so much I’m looking forward to at Couture. Being in the presence of so many incredible designers, many of whom have been a real source of inspiration for me, is both exciting and humbling. Just seeing that level of talent up close will leave an indelible mark, I’m sure. Launching the business on my own has been a huge challenge, so the opportunity to connect with other emerging designers as well as seasoned veterans and share experiences is something I truly value. I’m also looking forward to the intensity of it all. Years ago, I brought a musical I had cowritten to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. It was two weeks of sleepless nights and nonstop energy, but I loved every second. There’s something exhilarating about being fully immersed in a creative environment, and I can’t wait to feel that again at Couture.”
Laura Gallon Joaillerie.
Courtesy Laura Gallon Joaillerie
Laura Gallon Joaillerie, founded by Laura Gallon in 2020; began in L.A., now based in Paris
Price range: Starting at $580; the Dynasty collection (introducing at Couture) goes up to $35,000.
Aesthetic: “Art Deco with a modern interpretation, our pieces are made of 18-karat gold and feature diamonds but also a lot of colored stones. As a GIA-graduate gemologist, I love color and my clients value how I associate vibrant colors together in my pieces. Some of my favorites are tsavorites, spinels and the stunning black opal featured in the Gaia ring from the Dynasty collection because it looks like planet Earth.”
Signature pieces: “The Dynasty collection is our strongest collection so far. It’s very unique and cohesive at the same time. It has been extremely well received. Otherwise, the Galaxie necklace and the Rêve rings from our Alice collection.”
Inspiration: “My family legacy, the work of my great-grandparents, is my biggest source of inspiration. They created exquisite jewels 100 years ago in France and we are fortunate to have some of them in our possession today. Their designs are absolutely timeless. I have a lot of respect and admiration for them and it’s an honor for me to carry this legacy today.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “I really look forward to meeting with buyers, showing them the new collection, telling them about my story and seeing how my pieces would fit into their stores. I look forward to seeing how the collection is received, what pieces people are most drawn to. I’ve always dreamed of exhibiting at Couture since I founded the company five years ago. I wasn’t ready at the beginning but I feel like my design style has matured a lot and I am extremely grateful to finally join the Couture family.”
Bijules jewelry.
Julie Young-Ai Kim
Bijules, founded by Jules Kim in 2022; New York City and Milan
Price range: $1,200 to $15,000
Aesthetic: “Bijules is a conceptual and avant-garde jewelry brand that challenges traditional norms through unexpected silhouettes and body placements — like nail rings, ear cuffs and knuckle pieces — reimagining how and where jewelry lives on the body. Blending the exclusivity of fine materials with inspiration from nightlife, music and everyday culture, Bijules creates a unique high-low fusion that elevates the familiar into luxury art. Each piece is body-conscious, using the body itself as a canvas for self-expression and storytelling. The collections are often narrative-driven, reflecting personal experiences and contextual themes that connect ornament with identity and critique. Crafted in 14-karat and 18-karat gold and adorned with natural diamonds, opals, emeralds, sapphires, tourmalines and other precious stones, Bijules pieces carry both material richness and conceptual depth.”
Signature pieces: The Nail ring: “A cultural touchstone and protected design, reinterpreting nail art into precious wearable sculpture”; the Bar ring: “A single-finger fit with a multi-finger aesthetic, redefining comfort and statement”; the Knuckle ring: “Functional, flexible and minimalist; embraced by avant-garde celebrities”; the Handlet: “Bridging hand and wrist with CAD-based innovation and spatial elegance”; Earpod jewelry: “Jewelry as tech stabilizer and cultural symbol, made from recycled gold”; Compass ring: “A tribute to individual style and gem-centric, this ring can be worn North/South and East/West.”
Inspiration: “At Bijules, my work is inspired by the human body, cultural critique and the blend of high and low influences. I use jewelry as a form of expression and empowerment — challenging traditional norms by designing pieces that contour the body in unexpected ways. Influenced by subcultures, global experiences, and a desire to spark dialogue, my creations fuse fine craftsmanship with bold, avant-garde forms. Each piece reflects identity, power and a vision for the future that’s both personal and universally resonant.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “I’m coming to the Couture Design Atelier grounded in who I am and what I bring — nothing more, nothing less. Presence has impact, and for me, being in this space is about showing that there’s room for different voices, stories and ways of creating beauty. I’m an artist and an expert in my craft, shaped by lived experience and a clear sense of purpose. Every piece I make is rooted in my perspective and a desire to challenge norms while staying authentic. Being here is not just about jewelry — it’s about contributing to a broader creative landscape and helping to expand how we define meaning and luxury.”
Ophelia Eve Jewelry
Darian DiCianno/BFA.com
Ophelia Eve Jewelry, founded by Beth Yorn and Samantha Yorn in 2024; New York City
Price range: $2,000 to $13,000
Aesthetic: “Blending antique motifs with a modern edge — think regal silhouettes, knife-edge cuts, scattered diamonds, and rich, brushed 18-karat gold. We use vibrant stones like emeralds, rubies, sapphires, tanzanites, and tourmalines to bring color and playfulness into each piece.”
Signature pieces: “Our hinged hoops, mini and mega eye pendants, and Victorian slider necklace form the core of the collection — each one rooted in historical references but designed with modern wearability in mind. Our diamond signet rings, offered in a range of cuts and sizes, have become a signature element of the brand. They’re designed to be stacked, mixed and personalized, allowing clients to build their own layered narratives over time.”
Inspiration: “Old portraiture, artifacts and especially Beth’s line, Elisabeth Bell, when it comes to stone sourcing. She laid the foundation with an intentional eye and reverence for finding inspiration in the natural world. A lot of what we’re doing now is continuing that conversation in a new voice. We spend a lot of time digging through archives of decorative arts and pulling little details into a more modern framework.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member: “We’re excited to finally meet some of the designers, creators and editors in this industry that we’ve been admiring — and messaging— over the years. We can’t wait for people to hold and explore the jewelry in person. Our pieces have this really satisfying chunkiness and weight to them — once you feel them, it just kind of clicks.”
JV Insardi jewelry.
Courtesy JV Insardi
JV Insardi, founded by Jen Insardi in 2022; New York City
Price range: $2,000 to $90,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/stones used: “Modern with timeless sensibility.” 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds, sapphires and additional precious stones.
Signature pieces: Statement pieces; 12mm Solar Mixed Bead necklace, Next Chapter ring, Large Vibration earrings.
Inspiration: “A combination of modern Asian and Italian architecture married with my love of abstract fine art.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “It’s an honor to share my work with such a prestigious part of the jewelry community including fellow visionary creatives who share a deep passion for the art of fine jewelry. I am especially looking forward to connecting with potential retail partners as I continue to grow and evolve my brand.”
Chrstns jewelry.
Courtesy CHRSTNS
Chrstns, founded by Steffie Christiaens; based in Paris
Price range: $4,600 and up; price upon request
Aesthetic: “Minimal, sculptural, artistic, flowing and/or kinetic, spiritual.” She uses 18-karat gold, natural diamonds and precious gemstones like emeralds, rubies and sapphires.
Signature pieces: Banu Lucis ring, Padme ring, Amarleau collection, Ondoyer Series.
Inspiration: “My creations are inspired by life and that there is nothing constant in life except for change. Therefore I like to create sculptures that are ‘alive.’ Spinning diamonds, hidden chambers with diamonds, lines flowing like a river or in eternity. Chrstns invites you into a world where jewelry becomes a language of the soul — sculptural pieces that awaken emotion, beauty and presence. Each creation is a passage inward, revealing the poetry of love, aliveness, and timeless connection. They are an ode to the beauty of your being.”
What are you most looking forward to as a first-time DA member? “I’m most looking forward to connecting with jewelry enthusiasts — collectors, designers and curious minds alike. It’s a unique opportunity for mentorship, meaningful idea exchange, and the chance to build lasting friendships within a community that shares a deep love for artistry, savoir-faire and innovation.”