LONDON — When life offers lemons, there’s only one thing to do — turn them into gold.
That’s what Sheherazade Goldsmith, entrepreneur, jewelry designer and lifelong lemon lover, has done at her brand Loquet, which specializes in handmade gold lockets and bejeweled charms to fill them.
Goldsmith’s latest project is a collaboration with the food writer Skye McAlpine on a limited-edition lemon charm, made from 18-karat yellow gold, tsavorite and quartzite jade. It’s inspired by McAlpine’s tableware collection, her citrusy Venetian recipes, and Goldsmith’s own obsession with lemons.
“It’s a running joke in my family — I eat them every day. I buy Italian lemons that still have knobbly bits, and they cost a fortune. They’re always teasing me about it, wondering who would spend two pounds fifty on a lemon,” said Goldsmith, a mother of three who had an organic food business before she founded Loquet in 2013.
The lemons are the latest addition to Loquet’s Charms for Change series, where a percentage of sales is donated to a charity. In this case, McAlpine’s chosen charity is Chefs in Schools, which works to improve food, and food education, across the U.K.
The Loquet lemon charm, part of the brand’s Charms for Change series.
Goldsmith said her customers can’t get enough of those lemons, or the glass locket cases which are designed to be crowded with colorful charms — flowers, animal shapes, birthstones, evil eyes and angel wings — all of which are meant to recall important moments.
Customers are buying despite higher prices, and a change in strategy at the brand.
With the price of gold and fine jewelry rising, Goldsmith took the view that the only way was up, so she switched to working with 14-karat and 18-karat gold. It was a risk as, until recently, 40 percent of the business came from 9-karat gold.
“We pivoted the entire business, but it wasn’t just about changing the number of karats or increasing the prices. We changed the whole offer, and added more detail to meet the expectations of the client who is very knowledgeable about jewelry,” she said.
Goldsmith put a fresh spin on the charms and lockets, too, “making them bigger and bolder, with more depth. We also became a lot more adventurous with our materials in order to elevate the entire offering,” she added.
Some of the gold locket cases are now rimmed with gemstones and slightly angled at the back so they sit more naturally on the chest, while the charms are shaped so that they can fit together naturally within the locket.
A handful of Loquet’s lockets.
All of the diamonds she uses are mined, and of a high standard. The brand has also just introduced a cabochon range, which allows the rocks to stack snugly, side-by-side, inside the locket.
The charms, she said, “are very, very difficult products to make, which is probably why no one has ever tried to copy us.”
The jewelry is made in Italy, where the craftspeople are experts at small-scale work. Goldsmith said she’s still amazed by Loquet’s tiny child charms, which are 6 millimeters tall and dressed in pink or blue rhodium.
She feels strongly about working with mined diamonds rather than lab-grown ones.
“I have a very good source, whom I trust, who supplies us with ethically sourced diamonds. Using them is a personal decision. For me, stones have a purpose and a meaning because they were created billions of years ago, deep in the earth, and that’s where they hold their beauty,” she said.
“I understand the human and environmental impact of my comment. But if you are sourcing your stones from someone who can trace those stones straight back to the mine, and if they are doing things in an ethical way, then it’s worth paying more to get those diamonds,” she added.
Her customers would agree. Despite the leveling up and the price hikes, Goldsmith said that around 50 percent of sales come from repeat customers while the remainder is from new ones.
Loquet’s Tree of Life charm.
The U.S. generates 50 percent of sales, and those customers spend big. Goldsmith said the average order value is double that of the U.K.
In the U.S., customers buy from the brand’s e-commerce site and stores including Maxfield and the multibrand jewelry boutique Broken English. In the U.K., Loquet has a long-standing store at 73 Elizabeth Street in London’s Belgravia.
Goldsmith will be showcasing the collection in Las Vegas together with the wholesale company Rock House.
The charms range in price from 200 pounds to 800 pounds, while the lockets start around 1,200 pounds and can go as high as 10,000 pounds.
Next up for Loquet is a new, “bling-y” collection called Charms on Chains. Goldsmith has turned the most popular charms — including a smiling face and four leaf clover — into maxi designs meant to be worn dangling from a chain — no locket required.
A look at Loquet’s new pendants.
Loquet will also offer bangles with charms that can slide sideways, and a necklace with a horizontal bar, from which the charms can hang.
“We’re staying true to who we are and what we do — and I always try to stay in my lane” said Goldsmith, the designer with a Midas touch.