When was it that the term “romantic” warped into a coy acceptation? Perhaps somewhere between all the talks on female empowerment and how this can be conveyed through displays of strength or stoicism, other takes on channeling power were erroneously cornered into the shadow and being romantic was mistaken for weakness in that darkness.

But Lorenzo Serafini has a clear vision. He sees in romance and gentle femininity assets that not only sit at the heart of the brand he was called to helm last year, but make for its legacy, to preserve and perpetuate by adapting it to modern times.

For his first pre-collection for Alberta Ferretti, Serafini proceeded in this mission without nostalgia nor reverence for the archives. So much so that he dared to swap the house’s chosen fabric, chiffon, for organza, a material that enabled him to deliver the same sense of lightness but in a more structured way. 

Cue ‘50s-viking dresses and full skirts and daily pieces alike, including beautiful lightweight trenchcoats and caban jackets cut in triple-layered organza — their sophistication amplified by the lineup’s color palette spanning from ivory and powder pink to burnt orange and black.

Fabric exploration continued with linen treated with a sleek coating that gave a modern edge to pocketed skirts and streamlined coats, and with dazzling meshes that defined a fluid, see-through frock and pants with elastic waistbands, ideal to bring some nonchalance even on a dancefloor or a red carpet.

Elsewhere, floral motifs — from faded prints in pastel hues to those reminiscing of botanical herbariums — lace and occasional frills here and there alternated with graphic tailoring, standing out for sharp cuts or sheen. 

Speaking of shine, the final silk frock with lace inserts and the similar bias-cut slipdress opening the lineup were easy to love — and picture oneself even getting married in.