The word of the season for Hervé Léger’s Michelle Ochs: allure. And her motto? “Give her a reason to shop.”
Ochs and her fellow designers have the Herculean task of inspiring a consumer that, as has been widely reported by industry trades, is becoming less interested in engaging with the luxury market. But she seems to be taking the new status quo in stride, you could say she’s actually having some fun imbuing novelty into this decades-old label. (Hervé Legér turns 40 this year.)
Resort, which covers the holiday season, is crucial for a label like Léger with a proven track record in event dressing. Ochs reports that they’ve “gained traction” with the introduction of woven styles as complements to the brand’s famous bodycon knits. Her loosening of other silhouettes has also helped her push things forward.
There were other novelties, too. A venture into the Léger archives inspired the return of a basketweave technique; Ochs has placed it under the bust for an elegant and flattering effect. Another archive find is the stretch lace that Ochs used on slimming frocks. Also fun—and a good reason to shop—are a spray metallic ombré treatment Ochs has developed to imitate the brand’s signature bandage effect without the actual layering, and a grommet-like foiling on a few separates that reads like both the actual hardware and a cooler version of a polka dot. Ochs has also been working on introducing leather, as on a sexy midi-length red slip, and on playing up transparency with mesh inserts. She’s even venturing into tailoring. These have all been welcome introductions, which she reports her customer has been receptive to.
Yet most impactful is what she’s done to the bandage dress itself. Making it sometimes longer and occasionally looser, angling it or deconstructing it, she’s embraced the icon without letting it dictate too much of her output. “People are loving the variation in lengths we’ve been giving,” said Ochs. “We’re educating her that it’s not just tight mini dresses!”