Matteo Tamburini is rejecting the concept of designing differently for different markets.

“I don’t design for specific markets,” the Tod’s creative director said at WWD’s Global Fashion & Beauty Summit in Riyadh. “I design with an idea, a feeling I want to translate into the collection. The beauty is in creating something that can speak to people across different cultures.”

It’s a bold stance in a fashion industry increasingly focused on regional customization and market-specific strategies. But for Tamburini, this universal approach represents the future of luxury — one where “Made in Italy is not a label, but a mindset” and where the goal is creating pieces that “can speak to people across different cultures” without compromising creative integrity.

The strategy appears to be working: Tod’s was awarded WWD’s International Brand of the Year award in Riyadh.

A Foundation Built on Storytelling
Tamburini’s design sensibility was forged in his mother’s theatrical costume atelier in a small Italian town. “I grew up in an atelier where my mother created theatrical costumes,” he said. “As a child, I was constantly surrounded by fabrics, patterns, and the transformative power of clothing. I learned how clothes can actually create a character, how they can tell a story beyond mere fabric and stitching.”

This theatrical foundation continues to inform his work at Tod’s, where every collection becomes a narrative exercise in balancing heritage with contemporary relevance. It’s a perspective that sets him apart in an industry often focused on surface-level trends.

Having worked across both French and Italian fashion houses, Tamburini brings a unique comparative perspective to his role. “French brands are more structured, more organized in pushing creativity,” he explained. “Italian brands are more instinctive, more connected to lifestyle.”

This distinction has become central to his strategy at Tod’s, where he leverages Italy’s innate connection to living beautifully rather than simply creating beautiful objects.

His approach involves what he calls “Italianism” — a contemporary interpretation of Italian luxury that feels both rooted and revolutionary.

“I’m trying to speak about Italianism, but in a contemporary, up-to-date way,” he said. “It’s about creating something familiar yet surprising — changing textures, proportions and combinations to keep the essence alive.”

Quiet Luxury, Loud Impact
As the fashion industry grapples with the “quiet luxury” phenomenon, Tamburini offers a nuanced perspective. “What we do might look quiet, but it’s not as quiet as it seems,” he said. “For me, it’s not a trend — it’s about creating minimal things, beautifully executed.”

This philosophy positions Tod’s beyond fleeting movements, focusing instead on enduring quality and subtle distinction.

Central to Tamburini’s design philosophy is the concept of “easiness and desirability.” He envisions his customer as someone who “travels the world, moves with ease, and isn’t strictly following trends.” This translates into collections that transcend seasonal whims, instead offering timeless pieces with modern sensibilities. This universal approach has proven particularly relevant as luxury consumers become increasingly global in their outlook and lifestyle.

Tamburini draws inspiration from unexpected sources, with David Bowie serving as a key creative touchstone. “I always have specific icons in mind,” he shared, “not just his on-stage persona, but that off-stage nonchalant easiness — someone who works around stereotypes in fascinating ways.”

Tamburini’s approach to creative direction is very hands-on, including with production. “I’m often in the factories, working closely with the team,” he said. “I’m not a designer who sits in an ivory tower. Exchanging ideas, making people feel involved — that’s crucial to the creative process.” This collaborative spirit extends to his approach with both men’s and women’s collections, which he sees as part of a cohesive narrative rather than separate entities.

Wisdom for the Next Generation
In an era of instant gratification, Tamburini advocates for patience and depth. His advice to emerging designers reflects his own measured approach: “Stay curious. Speak less and listen more. Don’t rush — good design comes with time. We’re in an era of instant gratification, but true creativity requires patience and depth.”

As Tod’s continues its evolution under Tamburini’s creative direction, the brand’s International Brand of the Year recognition from WWD validates his approach to honoring Italian heritage while embracing global sensibilities. “Every collection is a journey,” he reflected. “It’s about creating sparks of desire, connecting with people through design that feels both familiar and exciting.”