The Rodarte fall collection began with a singular hue. “It all started with this lavender dove gray color that we wanted to work with, and that basically told the story of just wanting something that felt gothic and moody,” said Laura Mulleavy. “When you think of these gothic stories you see a moonlit color palette, and I think we were thinking about seeing color through moonlight.” The light shade of gray did indeed evoke the moon, on soft voluminous charmeuse mutton sleeves, and on a gathered chiffon caftan whose ruffled hem gently pooled around the model like a cloud. The palette extended to a midnight crimson red, an otherworldly mint green, and the blackest black—from velvet.

The lineup of dresses was imbued with the Mulleavy sisters’ signature romanticism and playfulness—albeit in a more austere form than recent collections. That’s not to say that the designers shied away from embellishment, but rather that their opulence glowed subtly from within, as opposed to blinding with razzle dazzle. White lace appliqués decorated bodices and delicately trimmed necklines and collars that at times hinted at a monastic feeling; the direct opposite of a simple slip dress was embellished with glitter, and another strapless column was made from sequined crochet. “It was really fun to pick materials that felt like they created texture [and light] within themselves,” said Laura. “Most of the dresses are not shiny, so it was the idea of seeing what would happen if you had a window and you’re staring at someone and your only source of light is the moon.”

“For us, it’s always been so personal; what we put forth is whatever inspires us in the moment,” added Kate. “I always felt the person that was choosing something of ours also had an emotional attachment to it—I always think, when you can have anything you want in the world, why are you choosing this one dress?” The final gown, with its lace appliquéd Victorian bodice, princess sleeves, and white-on-black floral inlay fabric that looked as if it could glow in the dark seemed to answer that question.