Julia and Renata Franco have always had a conceptual approach, and their new fall collection is no exception. They named it “Frontera” (Spanish for border). “Frontera has to do with limits, because the first border you have is all about physics: How you open yourself to the world (or how you protect yourself) is through your body. So we questioned where that border lies—your corporeal border—and how we could embody it,” they said, calling it their most spontaneous collection to date. This freedom was evident from the first look: a cocoon gray dress that hit just above the calf. The hem is wrinkled but as your eyes move upward, the wrinkles fade—a nod to borders and how they can be fuzzy.

Tailoring was a big component—especially in oversized proportions. Long shirt cuffs peeked from the sleeves of a voluminous coat, while boxy jackets were paired with gauzy draped dresses. More experimental looks played with fabric gatherings and drapings: a gray version of the opening cocoon dress was more delicate in its construction but more spirited in structure.

The Franco sisters often collaborate with other artisans for their accessories. This season, a partnership with Loló’s Lorena Zertuche resulted in 18k gold-dipped tortillas used as pendants and earrings, and shrunken versions of sombreros and huaraches that were added as statement details to cuffs and necklaces. The traditional huaraches worn by models were made by Baku Artesanal.