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    How Usha Vance’s Black Dress and Mantilla Blend Symbolism, Tradition and Modernity at Pope Leo’s Inaugural Mass

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    Second Lady Usha Vance joined her husband, Vice President J.D. Vance, at the inaugural mass of Pope Leo XIV, formerly known as Robert Francis Provost, on Sunday in Vatican City. J.D. is Catholic and the second lady is a practicing Hindu.

    Usha embraced Catholic tradition at the mass in all-black, which is expected of most women at the pontiff’s first service. She wore a sedate black dress with sleeves that cut above the elbow as well as a skirt hem that hit below the knee. She paired it with low pointed-toe pumps. She capped the look off with a matching mantilla, which is intended to symbolize women veiling one’s own physical beauty in favor of the beauty of God. It is often made of lace.

    United States Vice President JD Vance and Second Lady of the United States Usha Vance arrive ahead of the Inauguration Mass of Pope Leo XIV in St Peter’s Square on May 18, 2025 in Vatican City, Vatican.

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    Vance’s decision is in line with Catholic custom where women wear black during an audience with the pope. Though the custom has become optional, many still abide by it. Some women are permitted to wear white if they are royal with ties to the Vatican. These include the Queens of Spain and Belgium, the Princess of Monaco and more.

    VATICAN CITY, VATICAN - MAY 18: U.S. Vice President JD Vance (C) and his wife Usha Vance attend Pope Leo XIV's Inauguration mass on May 18, 2025 in Vatican City, Vatican. U.S. Vice President JD Vance is in Rome to attend the inauguration mass of Pope Leo XIV at the Vatican.  (Photo by Jacquelyn Martin - Pool/Getty Images)

    U.S. Vice President JD Vance (C) and his wife Usha Vance attend Pope Leo XIV’s Inauguration mass on May 18, 2025 in Vatican City, Vatican. U.S. Vice President JD Vance is in Rome to attend the inauguration mass of Pope Leo XIV at the Vatican.

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    On Friday, Usha attended the 44th Annual National Peace Officers’ Memorial Service in Washington, D.C. There, she went similarly formal and simple. She chose another midi-length dress, this one with a more fitted shape. The fabric featured shades of charcoal gray and black and included a boat neckline.

    VATICAN CITY, VATICAN - MAY 18: U.S. Vice President JD Vance and his wife Usha Vance attend the inaugural outdoor mass of Pope Leo XIV on May 18, 2025 in Vatican City, Vatican. Pope Leo XIV (formerly Robert Francis Prevost) presided over his inaugural mass at St. Peter's Square after his election on May 8th. (Photo by Sean Gallup/Getty Images)

    U.S. Vice President JD Vance and his wife Usha Vance attend the inaugural outdoor mass of Pope Leo XIV on May 18, 2025 in Vatican City, Vatican.

    Getty Images

    Other attendees to the inaugural outdoor mass of Pope Leo included Princess Charlene and Prince Albert of Monaco, Grand Duchess Maria Teresa and Grand Duke Henri of Luxembourg as well as King Felipe VI of Spain and Queen Letizia of Spain.

    Pope Leo made history on May 8 as the first American to hold the role.



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