Alfredo Martínez continues to draw from the allure of powerful, sensual women for his collections. Last season’s inspiration was Carmen Mondragón—also known as Nahui Olin, the painter and poet synonymous with Mexican avant-garde femininity. This season he turned to another icon, the actress and singer Sasha Montenegro, a Mexican screen siren of Italian descent known for her glamorous mystique.

The opening look set a dramatic tone; the sleek black dress paired and voluminous faux fur coat evoked a collective “wow” from the audience. It was a clear signal that Martínez continues to deliver for women who want to command attention. “It’s synthetic fur,” he clarified backstage, nodding to the Mob Wife aesthetic trend.

The designer’s staples—tailored suits, black dresses, and power silhouettes—were elevated through strategic details: oversized gold buttons, plush stoles that emphasized the shoulders, and controlled draping that sculpted the body. The silhouette was classic Martínez: sharp shoulders, cinched waists, and curve-skimming skirts. Decades later, it still works—and he knows it.

There’s a kind of clothing that functions as armor, and this was it. While sensuality remained front and center—at times overtly so—there was also a sense of mystery, a deliberate withholding. That effect was amplified by the oversized sunglasses that completed nearly every look, Martínez’s new venture into accessories.

While past seasons leaned heavily into bold colors and metallics, this collection pivoted toward a more grounded palette. Earth tones were the focus, offset by crisp black and white, a timeless combination.

Martinez’s strength lies in tailoring, and the collection’s strongest moments were precisely those where structure met seduction. Perfectly balanced proportions ensured that suiting felt both commanding and undeniably feminine.