“The aim of this collection is to position ourselves as a fashion label. We are more than just ‘the ones with the sweater,’” said Sezgin Kivrim during his recent presentation, looking at the eight models next to him wearing his new collection. To understand what he means, we need to take a brief look back to last year.

September 2024, Vogue’s first Forces of Fashion event in Berlin was coming up, and I was looking for an outfit by a local designer to wear. At the time, a nasty debate about deportations was raging in Germany. Kivrim, a graduate of the renowned UdK (University of the Arts) in Berlin, repeatedly referenced his Kurdish heritage in his fashion; the Kurdish diaspora in Germany is one of the largest in the world. I visited him in his studio, had him explain his work in more detail, and finally chose a crochet sweater that featured the Kurdish flag. I wore the sweater to our event, and photos of me in it alongside prominent figures such as Anna Wintour, Edward Enninful, Winnie Harlow, Francesco Risso, and Paloma Elsesser were posted on social media. What was meant as a subtle sign on my part, as a gesture of local support, sparked a wave of enthusiasm for the sweater within the Kurdish community worldwide, and it was even reported on a Kurdish news show in Australia. The sweater became famous.

For Kivrim, this is now both a blessing and a curse, because even though the sweater made the label more known, Sezgin wants to show his full range as a designer and not be reduced to one garment. The collection he is now presenting in Berlin is the starting point.

Kivrim now works with a partner: He and Angelina Schwarzkopf have been friends for over 10 years and share the tasks. In theory, he does the design and she takes care of the operational side, but in reality, they both do everything, and they are particularly proud that the new collection reflects both of their aesthetics.

There are only eight looks, which have been carefully chosen and are following the style of the brand: Kivrim has worked with mesh in the past, and so there are now several garments made from this material, such as a dress in a very light pastel pink, which is held together at the top by a thin strap with a diagonal cut across the back. The other strap is extra-long and wider and is worn around the neck as a thin scarf. The skirt part of the dress has ruffles.