You can see why Julian Klausner, staging his first men’s show since being named creative director of Dries Van Noten last December, got a major vote of confidence from the Belgian founder, who retired from the runway last summer.
During a preview, Klausner spoke at length about his respect for “the traditional masculine wardrobe” – and his passion for prints, expressive color, embroideries and “a little bit of fantasy.”
His zeal for the latter elements – no doubt cemented after designing womenswear alongside Van Noten for six years – slightly overshadowed the former in his spring collection, which explored formal and sporty archetypes.
The show unfurled in a raw, no-frills concrete venue, Lou Reed crooning about a perfect day on the soundtrack as models strolled out in a freewheeling mashup of opera coats, biker shorts, boatneck tops, fancy dinner jackets and pointelle thermals. Uniting it all were cummerbunds galore, in humble or fancy fabrics, a symbol of formalwear that fed Klausner’s narrative.
“I had in my mind a formal evening, like a wedding night or a prom, and how guys look better at the end of the night than the beginning, when their sleeves are rolled up, when the tie is loosened, the hair a bit more undone,” he said. “I imagine this kind of romantic guy with his group of friends going to the beach to see the sunrise.”
The grey jersey, skimpy shorts and suede plimsolls were also giving off-duty ballet dancer vibes, while the psychedelic florals and heavily sequined shorts emitted rave energy.
To be sure, Klausner’s romantic storytelling – and what are clearly solid design chops – yielded some very fine ideas: the covered buttons adding a unique, dressy touch to overcoats and double-breasted jackets; jockey stripes some zest to silky shirts and plain blousons, and a trompe-l’œil vest some punch when sewn to the front of a classic white shirt.
“Trying to play with something very fancy, but then still keeping a casual attitude” was how he described his modus operandi.
It was a promising and spirited start for the 33-year-old designer, who clearly breathes the DVN DNA. Now he just needs to fine-tune the balance between wardrobe and wonder.
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