“There’s a maturity to the project,” Matthew M. Williams said of the namesake label he will introduce during men’s fashion week in Paris. “I’m turning 40 this year, and it’ll be 20 years I’ve been working in the industry.”
Williams never fit the mold of designers who work around themes, inspiration trips or narratives, always preferring to roll up his sleeves and work closely with specialized factories and artisans to craft clothes and accessories with currency, soul and a sly brand of cool.
His namesake label — which will be showcased at the Seiya Nakamura showroom in Paris from Thursday until July 1 — includes “women’s specific denim, and the shoes come in women’s sizes,” the designer said. He calls it “more of a clothing project” than a fashion collection. “It’s more product-based.”
It certainly reflects what Williams wants to wear.
“It’s all just stuff I’ve been wanting to exist for a long time,” he said during an interview. “I’ve always worn the clothes I design. You really get to know clothing by wearing it, getting inside and feeling what it’s made of.”
Matthew M. Williams wearing items from his new namesake label.
WWD broke the news on June 2 that the American designer, best known for his three-year stint as the creative director of Givenchy, and as cofounder of 1017 Alyx 9SM — was working on a new namesake, independent brand.
He declined all comment on 1017 Alyx 9SM, which last presented a collection to the press a year ago, stressing that launching a namesake brand was something he always had in his mind.
“The timing was right for it, because there was a conclusion of other projects that allowed me space and free time for this to begin,” he said.
His first proposition spans roughly 50 items, which he describes as “my wardrobing pieces — the products that I really believe in and love to wear every day, made by my favorite suppliers in the world.”
Williams explained that he now has the confidence to take on the project. “And it takes time to actually know your craft and so this is a big step for me, being 100 percent independent in all aspects of the brand,” he said. “The suppliers, I look at them as my real partners because that’s who I’m in dialogue with every day to create something that’s special and has value and that has care and love put into it, which is important to me.”
Williams had just received prototypes of his signature shirting, and raved about the fabric and construction. He’s also working with a denim mill in Japan, an American jersey specialist and a Spanish maker of handmade shoes, as reported.
A look from the new Matthew M. Williams collection.
Asked about his ambitions for his first season, Williams replied: “I just want to be in as many like doors that I feel understand the project and appreciate the product.
“It’s a pure creative outlet because I love fashion and I feel good when I’m creating, whether that’s music or taking photos or making fashion — it’s kind of all the same creative energy,” he said.
Williams disclosed that he’s backing a new fashion project by 26-year-old Myles Henrik Hall, a longtime collaborator throughout his fashion career.
Born in New York City, Hall has also worked at Nick Knight’s Showstudio and takes photos of musicians like Playboi Carti. He said his Diary 99 project “is based around me and my generation…inspired by how my friends and I dress.”
For his debut, he decided to focus on Made in Japan denim for men and women, along with outerwear, accessories and jersey.
A look from the Diary 99 label by Myles Henrik Hall.
Myles Henrik Hall/Courtesy of Diary 99