Huishan Zhang is channeling socialite Nan Kempner’s rebellious spirit this season, drawing on her collection of Yves Saint Laurent pieces and the way she combined uptown elegance with an individual edge.

In the 1970s, when rules about women wearing pants in elegant restaurants were common, she was stopped by the maître d’ at La Côte Basque because they didn’t permit trousers, which she was wearing. Kempner didn’t have time to go home and change, so she simply took off her YSL pants and went to lunch in her Le Smoking jacket.

Zhang played with that contrast of done up on top and party on the bottom.

He sharpened jackets and coats with a slight cinch and pleating details onto tweed and leather, while underneath tunic tops became sheer with embroidery and shirts got the silk treatment.

“There’s lots of day looks inserted in between the collection because I’m creating a day to evening wardrobe with a focus on multifunctional and textured pieces,” said Zhang, who is no stranger when it comes to remixing fabrics together.

He paired tweed with faux fur and leather so masculine that it could either be worn by a dominatrix or a warrior.

Zhang injected softness by way of embroidered caged dresses with Roaring Twenties feather trims; built-in capes that resemble parachutes and layered tulle to create density.

The designer said eveningwear remains a top category, but there has been a demand for coats and denim that has allowed Zhang to expand into new categories.

If Kempner was alive today, it’s no doubt she would be spotted in one of Zhang’s bouclé blazers or pleated good girl skirts.

“I always wear sportswear for day — sweaters, skirts and pants. I’m very much a pants girl. At night, I switch to suits like Adolfo’s metallic Chanel-looking suit, or Halston’s long cashmere dress,” the famous socialite told WWD in 1972.